A Day in Western Nebraska is a Day Full of Pioneer History

No, it is not all flat cornfields. Not in this part of Nebraska.

I drove northward from Colorado via the wide-open vistas of the Pawnee National Grassland, when suddenly I was climbing and twisting through a mountainous pass in Nebraska’s Wildcat Hills State Recreation Area.

One minute you’re tootling along in fairly flat country, then the topography abruptly changes and ears are popping and there are warning signs to trucks about braking, before you’re deposited back down into the North Platte River Valley and a good anchor spot for any visit – the town of Gering NE.

Western Nebraska does not look like what you think Nebraska looks like.

They even poke fun at it in their state’s travel and tourism marketing:

Parts of the area are sort of a mini-Monument Valley, with big rock formations and buttes and things sticking up out of nowhere. The photo at the top of this post, Chimney Rock, is one example of that.

Here is a quick video about it:

You can visit the Chimney Rock National Historic Site to learn more about how the spire was a landmark for so many people moving across Nebraska on the Oregon Trail, the California Trail, and the Utah / Mormon Pioneer Trail of the faithful pulling handcarts and fleeing Nauvoo, Illinois all the way to “Zion” or what we call Salt Lake City.

Chimney Rock itself is over 300 feet of a combination of clay and volcanic ash, with a sandstone cap that protects the famous spire. It is somewhat shorter than it was in the 1800’s because of erosion and at least one lightning strike. When pioneers heading west saw it, they knew that they were at the end of the crossing-the-Great-Plains part of their difficult journey, and about to head up into the Rockies.

Another natural feature that served as a Trails landmark in this part of western Nebraska was Scotts Bluff, now the 3,000 acre Scotts Bluff National Monument which I enjoyed visiting years ago. Since I last stopped in, a new interpretive center for visitors has opened, to go along with the hiking trails and the 1.6 mile Summit Drive through three tunnels to the top of Scotts Bluff. Note that driving to the summit is weather-dependent and the road can’t handle vehicles above 11 feet and 7 inches because of the tunnels.

Somewhat confusingly, the town right next to Gering is called Scottsbluff (all one word.) If you like craft beer, stop into Flyover Brewing Company in Scottsbluff and try some of their offerings.

Another way to view Scotts Bluff is from the Legacy of the Plains Museum in Gering.

The museum’s exhibits are wide-ranging:

“The Main Exhibit Hall consists of seven zones: ‘Prairie Pathways’ which highlights the different modes of transportation from the prehistoric times to modern travel. ‘Grassland Empire’ highlights the history of livestock and those who tend to them. ‘Beyond the Dust Bowl’ explores dryland farming techniques, equipment – with a focus on wheat. ‘Just Add Water’ explores irrigated farming equipment and how the fields get their water. Potatoes, sugar beets, beans and corn are also highlighted. ‘Taking Care of Business’ highlights the businesses that made the North Platte Valley stand out. ‘Be it Ever so Humble…’ highlights the different ethnicities that settled this region and the changes that occurred in their dwellings. ‘Eye of the Artist’ showcases artwork from local artists through the generations.”

Say hello to the small Longhorn herd on site, and admire Scotts Bluff in the background:

Fortunately for traveler logistics, the key items to see are strung along the Western Trails Scenic & Historic Byway, one of many designated scenic byways in Nebraska.

I’m a byways nerd, so I have to jump out of the car and take a photo of one of the signs, if I can find a spot where I won’t be run over:

There are a bunch of historical markers along the Western Trails route, including one about a former Pony Express station.

Since I’ve visited the excellent Pony Express Museum in St. Joseph, Missouri at the start of the historic mail-carrying route some 500 miles to the east of where I was driving, I had to pull over as the sun set:

Everyone said “Eat beef!” when asked for quintessential Nebraska cuisine.

I skipped the state’s iconic Runza ground beef, cabbage, and onions sandwich and instead went for the outstanding “Balsamic Bleu” steak salad from the extensive menu at The Steel Grill in Gering:

If you are staying in Gering you will need to drive east and then double back to see Chimney Rock and parts of the Western Trails Scenic & Historic Byway, but you won’t have to drive far to take it all in.

I was very comfortable at the Cobblestone Hotel & Suites in Gering, which is well-located near shops and most importantly, the tiny Gering Bakery right around the corner.

There is signage everywhere to remind you of the history under your feet. You’re on the Oregon Trail and you haven’t died of dysentery. Yay!

If you want to dig deeper into Nebraska history, food, culture, outdoor recreation, and small town surprises, get yourself the current edition of the Nebraska Passport.

Whether you use the app or the hard copy booklet with stamps, it’s a terrific way to discover the state.

Have you visited western Nebraska and said, “Wow!” the first time you saw its surprising landscape? Tell us about it in the comments.

All photos by the author.

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