Artful color: Carpet of Flowers in Brussels

Posted June 26th, 2008 by Sheila

Every other August, the Brussels Grand Place flower carpet (Scarborough photo)It happens every other year, and for 2008 the timing is right….

August 14-17, 2008 is this year’s celebration of gorgeous, colorful flowers.

They are mostly begonias, laid out in a carpet-like pattern on the magnificent Grand Place in Brussels.

It would be difficult to find a more dramatic, elegant backdrop anywhere in Europe.

Carpet of Flowers, Brussels, Belgium (Scarborough photo)

It’s free to walk around and admire the carpet, or for three Euro, you can climb up to a balcony on the first floor of the Town Hall, to see the intricate pattern from above.

If you have a choice, see it on one of the first days, while the colors are at their brightest.

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Adventure before the days of Adventure Travel

Posted June 25th, 2008 by Antonia Malchik

I’ve got a bug for old travel books recently. There was Jan Morris — not an old book, but with many older essays in it — and before her Wilfred Thesiger, who makes me wish I could have been an Englishman stationed in Arabia before the Brits and French went in and carved it all up to make weird new countries like Iraq and Iran and basically screw up the rest of the century. It would have been nice to see the land before borders were dropped at the whim of imperialists.

And now I’ve gone further back, to Afanasy Nikitin’s Voyage Beyond Three Seas. Although Nikitin wrote his book in the mid-1400s, my edition is an imaginatively illustrated hardback published in the Soviet Union, complete with request from Raduga Publishers for readers’ “opinion of this book, its translation and design and any suggestions you may have for future publications.” Forget being nostalgic about the world of exploration before the advent of “adventure travel,” that line made me nostalgic for a time when, supposedly, publishers actually cared about the quality and content of what they printed.

Nikitin was a merchant in the 15th century who set out from his native Tver (now located between Moscow and Petersburg) for the reported riches of India, and is supposedly the first Russian ever to have reached India. Evidently, according to the publishers, India and Russia have always had a special connection: “Since olden times the peoples of the two great countries have lived in friendship, showing a keen interest in each other.” Which might explain why the two countries consistently produce more genius mathematicians than the rest of the world combined.

As a travel book, Voyage Beyond Three Seas leaves a lot to be desired by modern standards. There is little dramatic element, and descriptions of vast lands zip by so fast that I had to pull out an atlas and a guide to old city/country names to figure out where in the heck Nikitin had landed this time. Taken in the context of its audience, likely other merchants looking to make the arduous journey across seas and mountains, its descriptive power was considerable: “And near Ceylon precious stones, rubies, rock crystal, agates, amber, beryls, and emery are found. … The harbour of Pegu is not small, and it is mostly Indian dervishes there.”

Your eyes could glaze over reading too much of that kind of listing, combined as it is with enumerations of various fighting forces and servants and retainers and elephants of various leaders and warlords. Like I said, little dramatic element. But reading between these lines, and paying attention, you realize that Nikitin suffered massive hardships in his endeavors to trade the riches of India with the riches of Russia. From being attached and plundered by “pagan Tartars” to becoming madly depressed over his “sinful” decision to give up his “true faith” of Russian Orthodoxy for Islam, you get the impression that Nikitin dragged himself over the seas and land by pure force of will, often hungry, always lonely and desperate to return to Russia, very often nearly losing his life. (Note: the conversion to Islam is unclear, but scholars studying the text have concluded that he very likely did, explaining why he constantly referred to his “sinful voyage.”)

Compare this with the over-hyped experiences of travel writers who throw themselves into possibly life-threatening situations (or at least physically endangering themselves) and then can’t wait to rush home and write about it. Lacking introspection as well as true observation, these books and articles have to hinge themselves on adventure travel because the days of true exploration are over, which, as I’ve mentioned before, can leave a sadder literary landscape.

With a background of a home they will assuredly return to, most travel writers who follow this path fail to reach the desperate pitch of a muted and untrained 15th-century resident lost and hungry in a foreign land, who dragged himself home mile by mile and died before making it back to his hometown. The irony is that, when true adventure was possible, it wasn’t held to be admirable or desirable. Further irony — it’s almost depressing to know that in 2006 an Indian organization retraced Nikitin’s journey … by driving in SUVs.

Nobody sold Nikitin a package tour to India, touting hobnobbing with natives, and the risks he took were not to alleviate a privileged white boy’s malaise, but to expand the glory of his home country and bring something of the outside world back.

Of course, it’s debatable whether real exploration or adventure travel is more desirable. The former very possibly does more damage than the latter, as adventure travel has a vested interest in preserving wilderness and culture. But the writing is another thing entirely. It’s hard to take seriously so much of our modern adventure travel, written as it is with so little knowledge and historical context, when compared with the adventurers and explorers of bygone ages, people with a thirst to learn about a reachable speck of foreign lands, not just the limits of their physical capabilities.

It’s a Weird, Weird World.

Posted June 22nd, 2008 by liz

Traveling around cyberspace this week, I came across two articles that reminded me that there’s a lot of weird out there worth exploring.

The first article, 7 Bizarre Tours You’d Actually Sign Up for … Maybe highlighted some truly interesting tours that you never would have thought existed. For example, how about the Illegal Border Crossing Tour in Mexico, a ‘night-time guided hike and you’ll be chased in the dark, shot at by (fake) police and you may or may not make it under the fence’. Sounds like something the PC police might have a problem with but I’ve just added it to my list of things to do on my road trip next year. (note to self: make sure I pack some old clothes). Other intriguing tours include the Karaoke Ghost Tour of Sydney and the Scandal Tour of Washington DC.

The second article, Top 10 weird attractions around the globe, offers a list of ‘one of a kind’ events and places. From the Cockroach Race in Brisbane, Australia to the Hakone Kowakien Yunessun Wine Spa in Hakone, Japan, there’s enough weird here for everyone. If I had to choose one, I’d definitely be heading for the wine spa.

And if that’s not enough weird, just yesterday I was reading a short article in the recent Wanderlust magazine that listed ’sewer tours worth a visit’ ranging from the sewers to Paris to New Dehli.

It sure is a weird, weird world.

Carnival of Cities for 21 June 2008

Posted June 21st, 2008 by Sheila

Carnival of Cities logoWelcome to this edition of the Carnival of Cities; it was supposed to be posted as usual on Wednesday (18 June) but I was “overtaken by events” preparing to teach a new workshop yesterday, here in Austin (Learn Five Web 2.0 Tools in One Day.)

Let’s just say that the workshop went very well, but five tools is probably a few too many to cram into one teaching event. :)

At any rate, let’s pause and take a quick world tour in one blog post:

** Cities in the Americas **

Lodi, California, USA JHSEsq tells a great story about an everyday hero saving a life on the train tracks in Life in Lodi: The Village Has a Real, Live Hero posted at Colloquium.

Atlanta, Georgia, USA Claudine recommends the Canine Cocktail Hour at Hotel Indigo posted at her blog theatlantatraveler.com, saying, “We love our pets in Atlanta!”

Seattle, Washington, USA Pam Mandel presents Seattle’s Wing Luke Asian Museum posted at Nerd’s Eye View, saying, “Seattle has a new museum that addresses the Asian and Pacific Islander cultures that call our city home. The museum isn’t quite ready for prime time, but the building is a stunner and the museum promises to be a real gem when they have all their exhibits installed. It’s worth a preview.”

Caminos de Los Indios, Venezuela APH gives some background on Socialist Cities at the Market Urbanism blog, saying, “Development of Caminos de Los Indios, the first of five “Socialist Cities” has begun south of Caracas. In his 2007 inaugural speech, Hugo Chavez said, ‘We need to [develop] a system of cities based on federations, federal regions. We need to build communal cities, Socialist Cities.’”

San Francisco, California, USA CatSynth presents In the shadow of the bridge posted at catsynth.com mp3 kitty cat synthesizer music, saying, “Images and thoughts from our neighborhood in San Francisco.”

Moab, Utah, USA Ms. Smarty Pants gives us some highlights from Moab, Utah posted at Ms. Smarty Pants Know It All, saying, “Moab is a smaller town, but it is the main hub of southeast Utah.”

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Ethan lists all sorts of things to do, plus a neat little photo stream, in Vancouver: So Much to Do, So Little Time posted at Never Clever Whatsoever.

Ocho Rios, Jamaica Amy @ The Q Family presents Carnival Cruise - Day 6 - Ocho Rios posted at The Q Family Adventure, saying, “Our quick visit to Ocho Rios shows that there is more to see in Jamaica than we can do in one day.”

New Brunswick, New Jersey, USA John presents the Most Common Birds in Middlesex County posted at his comprehensive A DC Birding Blog.

Seattle, Washington, USA Mary Jo Manzanares says to get off of the couch and Let’s Get Ready to Scramble! Writing at her blog The Seattle Traveler, she says, “Explore the streets of Seattle and get a little exercise with this urban orienteering competition.”

Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii, USA Kara Williams presents Good, Big Eats at Kahuna Kabobs in Lahaina, Maui posted at Traveling Mamas.

** Cities in Asia **

Nagoya, Japan Silicon Valley Blogger presents Making Money Through Day Trading: The Secret Lives of Stay-At-Home Mommy Speculators posted at The Digerati Life, saying, “This details the story of a day-trading Japanese suburban housewife in Nagoya, Japan.”

Beijing, China I had a wonderful two-part Family Travel blog guest post by Laura Bond Williams about taking young children to Beijing. Part One covers the logistics of long-haul travel from Texas to China with little ones, and Part Two has details of her family’s time in Beijing.

Tokyo, Japan Wendy presents Teenage Tokyo: Hangry and Angry posted at Escape From New York, saying, “They look like the revenge of Hello Kitty. Their names are Hangry and Angry and they have scars, eye patches and stitches.”

Xuan Wei, China Junjie has some nice photos of Xuan Wei posted at Junjie’s China blog.

** Cities in Europe **

Perugia, Italy Karen Bryan presents Review of Holiday Inn Perugia - great value for money and scenic pool posted at Europe A La Carte Blog, saying, “A value for money hotel close to the beautiful Umbrian town of Perugia in Italy.”

Nuuk, Greenland Katrina Cain asks What is the Biggest City in the World? and I’m going with her square kilometers definition. She writes at What is the Biggest….

That concludes this edition of the Carnival of Cities. If you’d like to host the July 2 or July 9 edition, drop me an email at sheila “at” sheilascarborough “dot” com. Thanks!

Pam over at Nerd’s Eye View is hosting next week’s 25 June edition, so submit your (one, non-spammy) blog post to the next edition by 12 noon US Pacific time on Tuesday, 24 June, using our carnival submission form.

Past posts and future hosts can be found on our blog carnival index page.

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Old, rare, fun: collectible out-of-print travel guides

Posted June 20th, 2008 by Antonia Malchik

Following on Liz’s post about great bookstores worldwide, and on the seemingly collective obsession we PT bloggers have with books (especially, of course, those related to travel), I’m happy to be able to point readers in the direction of an article on ABEBooks that combines travel and booklust.

I’m always happy to tout ABE anyway, since you can find almost any book on the planet on it and support over 13,000 independent booksellers at the same time. But if you’re a lover of old travel guides you’ll really want to read an article they’ve posted about collecting rare, antique, or simply old out-of-print travel guides. Not only does it give fun little snippets from the humble beginnings of Fodor’s and Frommer’s, and snippy responses to Baedeker’s like “guidebooks for the common American,” it also gives links to some of the most collectible (and expensive) old travel guides around. I like the Baedeker with a Biedermeier cover for $4400, but real treats are the Emigrant guides that were published for farmers and pioneers and gold diggers (of both varieties) looking to settle in the American West. You could pay over $500 for a guide to the “backwoods and prairie,” also known as the Western States. Tempting, but I bet my ancestors didn’t pay that much for it when settling a Montana homestead in the 1880s.

There is an attraction in old travel guides. Something about the language or lyricism or simply the enjoyment of a world that, pre-Internet and cheap air travel, was more mysterious and fascinating viewed from the comfy perspective of those secure in their country’s preeminence. Personally, I like ones that are even harder to find, written by natives with a love for their city of culture. I’ve got a few: a Soviet-era publication called “Around the Golden Ring of Russia,” whose elegant language reminds me of the kind of letters written by my great-grandmother; Henriette Mandl’s “In Search of Vienna: Walking Tours of the City;” and “Florence:an appreciation of her beauty,” a 1960 guide by then-mayor of the city Piero Bargellini, complete with colored plates and a foldout map.

Using old guides to traverse a place is a unique experience. Compare traveling through Italy guided by an old Baedeker with doing the same with a modern Let’s Go or Lonely Planet — by switching volumes you could be in an entirely different country without moving a step.