Old Vienna, New Attitude
Friday, September 19th, 2008
When I lived in Vienna, Austria, 10 years ago, the proud imperial city seemed the last bastion of old-world attitudes. A sense of those old empires — the Austro-Hungarian, the Hapsburgs — not only lingered, you could feel it everywhere. The Viennese were resistant to change and unwelcoming of outsiders.
But Vienna, which I have heard many call “the smiling city without a soul,” has changed, and in the best of ways. Rather than throwing out old values and traditions, it’s simply continued them with a greater sense of openness and welcome. The city is much more family-friendly, as I recently wrote in The Boston Globe. But the changes apply to more than just activities for kids.
The revered coffeehouses, once haunted by Trotsky and Lenin, still serve the same fantastic coffee, and the waiters still wear bowties and black jackets. Cafe Landtmann, pictured here, still hosts Austria’s politicians, journalists, and diplomats. But, unlike a decade ago, the waiters are attentive and even — dare I say it — friendly.
“Standoffish” doesn’t even begin to describe the Viennese in the past, but somehow the sunshine has entered their souls. Vienna has an incredible quality of life, with comprehensive and cheap public transport, beauty and cleanliness, and serene walks like these through the Vienna Woods, or Wienerwald. That quality hasn’t changed. What’s changed is that the locals suddenly don’t seem to mind sharing it all with the rest of the world.

When I first moved to New York state, I was prey to all the assumptions and stereotypes that pop to mind when the words “New York” end up in a sentence. “New York … that’s city, right? No trees, no open space, no peace. Just city.”
So when we drove out the whole three hours to the university town of Ithaca in the Finger Lakes region of New York, I expected to find something pretty similar. And did I? Nope. Of course not. Because wherever I go, what I find is not what I expected. With its vast lakes, wide farmlands and winery fields, and air much less humid and much more cool than it is where I live, I could have been in a different country. My surprise came despite the fact that I’ve long been an admirer of Ronda Roaring’s Web site,
And how I do! I’m a convert. As opposed to the dusty, hot unpleasantness of Napa (relive my experience 


