“Aboriginal people want to see Aboriginal artists perform all kinds of music,” says Alan Greyeyes, festival curator for Aboriginal Music Week. He selects acts to appear at the festival to meet that need, but there’s another idea in mind too. “We really want to use the festival and the music to build bridges with other communities,” he adds. “And it’s working.”

Considering the range of musical styles, interests, and backgrounds of the artists on tap for this year’s festival, it would be hard not to find connections across genres and countries. A Tribe Called Red mixes DJ and club sounds with powwow music. Afro-Latin Dub meets West Coast bass in the music of husband and wife duo World Hood. Folk singer and songwriter Leela Gilday, who counts a Juno and a Western Canadian Music Award among her accolades, will be among the artists taking the stage in Winnipeg during the first week in November, as will emerging songwriters Cassidy Mann and Kyle Cedarwall.

Derek Miller brings rootsy rock and Native life together in his songs, and like Gilday, he’s won a Juno for his work, and performed with singer and songwriter Buffy Sainte Marie among others. Samian traces the story of aboriginal people with a voice of soul, heart, and a kinship with blues. He has performed at the Vancouver Olympic Games, in Finland, France, China, and Indonesia, and will be bringing his tories and songs to the stages of Winnipeg.

“I have found Aboriginal artists to be some of the most boundary-breaking, original, and refreshing artists I have ever met,” says Gilday, whose songs of Aboriginal life have won her widespread respect in the folk scene

That boundary crossing aspect of Native music goes back over time. That is an aspect well represented by Métis fiddle playing, a style which comes out of the confluence of French, Irish, Scottish, and Native music in the early days of contact between First Peoples and settlers and traders from Europe. John Arcand is known as the master of Métis fiddling for his well researched knowledge of older tunes and his skill at composing in the style, as well. Arcand, who learned his sense of timing on the fiddle as a child by watching dancers’ feet, has represented Western Canada at the Fiddles of the World Conference, was a delegate at an Irish Métis Cultural Exchange where he played for the President of Ireland, and has also played for Queen Elizabeth during her visits to Canada. Arcand will bring his love for the fiddle and enthusiasm for sharing his traditional style to Winnipeg during Aboriginal Music Week, as will fellow Métis fiddler Darren Lavallee, winner of many Aboriginal Music Awards.

Gabriel Ayala knows a bit about passion, tradition, and timing, too. He holds a master’s degree in music performance, and that mastery encompasses classical and flamenco guitar styles, as well as a fusion genre that Ayala has created, called JazzMenco. He will be adding all this to to programs in Winnipeg.

Winnipeg, a crossroads of commerce and travel on the Canadian prairie, is becoming known as a musical crossroads as well, an aspect of the city that’s sure to be felt by those taking the stage and those in the audiences during Aboriginal Music Week.

Aboriginal Music Week takes place November 1 through 6

photo of ATribe Called Red by Pat Bolduc
photo of Leela Gilday by RedWorks Studio
used by permission

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Story and photos by Tony Robinson-Smith

There are three major obstacles to navigating in the Long Range Mountains: low visibility caused by cloud capping the highlands, many small streams and ponds look similar to one another and can cause confusion, and the dense tangles of spruce and fir which make walking in a straight line difficult and can easily lead hikers off course. – Parks Canada website

We’re not used to this. Clawing through dense forest, crawling on all fours under half-fallen trees, balancing on moss-swaddled logs, squeezing between shed-size boulders, branches raking our packs, thick cloud of blackflies spinning round our heads. I’m already bleary-eyed and breathing like a locomotive and we’ve only been going three hours. But it’s steep, at times very steep, and humid.

Maybe our packs are too damn heavy: food for five days, tent, stove, canisters of gas, camera, binoculars, umbrellas, bird book, water. But the real problem is there’s no trail. Or there’s a trail, then it’s gone; another trail, but, no, that’s river bed.

We keep one piece of advice from the park warden firmly in mind: “Make sure you pass to the right of the waterfall, not to the left. You won’t make it up the left side.” I say “we,” but right now I’m alone. I lost my wife half an hour ago. Last thing I said to her was “You try that path and I’ll try this one. They’ll probably join further up.” It occurs to me that splitting up wasn’t a terribly wise thing to do. She has the map and compass, half the food, and the car keys.

“NADYA?” The word echoes off the walls of the gorge.

This is our first day on the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, a “wilderness backpacking experience” that the Parks Canada website says is for hikers with “good navigational skills with a map and compass.” Yesterday, we attended a briefing and had to demonstrate these skills in a written test at the visitor center to gain a backcountry permit. Having only become acquainted with the basics three weeks ago, the test took us all morning and had us sweating (Question 11: “Before adjusting for declination, take a bearing off the map from the end of Western Brook Pond to the top of the gorge. What bearing will you travel on?”).

After completing the test, we were shown a short film about the traverse. It contained a lot of unsettling vocabulary and cautionary advice: “windswept barrens,” “few landmarks,” “you are responsible for your own safety,” “once you leave the boat, you’re on your own.” But the traverse was only twenty-two miles as the crow flies and it was summer. How difficult could it be? The warden gave us an emergency transmitter before we headed out.

“TONY!! How did you get there?” I look up. Ah, there she is. Like me, she has emerged from the forest and found a way up beside the waterfall. She is now spread-eagled on bare rock face, clinging for dear life. But I was in the same spot myself twenty minutes ago. She must backtrack and take the mud path down to the shelf above the waterfall where I now stand. I yell instructions and wave my arms about extravagantly, conscious that we won’t be seeing much wildlife if I do much of this. Apparently, there are some 4800 moose in the park, herds of woodland caribou, black bear, snowshoe hare, arctic fox, lynx, and rock ptarmigan.

While I wait for Nadya, I look back at Western Brook Pond. We have climbed 1800 feet in three miles, and I now have an uninterrupted view of the gorge. The isolated dock where the park boat dropped us is a like a playing card. The near-vertical sides of the granite and gneiss tables that imprison the lake are spectacular. According to Rocks Adrift, a book I picked up in the visitor centre, the Long Range Mountains are the result of two continents colliding a billion years ago, forcing ocean crust and the earth’s mantle to the surface. Over the past two million years, glaciers have ploughed through the rock, leaving deep gorges and hanging valleys and exposing ancient strata. Gros Morne is a geologist’s and palaeontologist’s delight as it is a classic example of plate tectonics at work and fossils date back to Palaeozoic times. The gorge resembles a Norwegian fjord, but a warden on the boat told us that none of the gorges in the park qualify as fjords as they are no longer open to the sea.

Nadya and I take lunch sitting beside an insectivorous pitcher plant at the top of the gorge. From here, to return to civilization, we must head south over the “windswept barrens” to Gros Morne Mountain and descend at Ferry Gulch.

Lost in The Barrens

“I tell you, this trail ISN’T going in the right direction.”

I look down at the trail, reluctant to abandon it. It’s a nice trail, seductively indented with moose tracks and boot prints.

“Well, maybe it swings around and then winds its way up to the saddle.”

“Let’s take another bearing,” Nadya says reasonably. I stop and unfold the map. We have it in a fancy transparent case with a cord that goes over the shoulder; I’ve attached the compass to the corner by means of a shoelace so we don’t lose it. This is the third bearing we’ve taken in ten minutes.

“North is in that direction. No, wait. We have to factor in declination. Add 21 degrees.” I rotate the map. “Now, there should be a pond somewhere… over there.” I point to the east.

“There’s no pond. Why are they called ponds and not lakes?”

“I have no idea.” I think of a pond in town with model boats and a fountain. Our map is speckled with ponds, some of them with funny names like Candlestick Pond and Spike Knee Pond. Ninety percent of them don’t have names.

“Ok, I’ll take a bearing and then you take one and we’ll confer,” I say.

“We should probably go back to the corner of Marks Pond because right now we don’t know where exactly we are on the map.”

“Good idea.” We turn around and head back the way we’ve come.

Twenty-four hours have passed since we ascended the tablelands. I can understand why they call this place “the barrens.” Most of it is marshy tundra, lakes, and tuckamore. Tuckamore is a local term for dwarf balsam fir and spruce trees, arrested in growth by hard frosts and twisted into torturous shapes by the wind, akin to krummholz in the Alps. Apparently, tuckamore can be as much as six hundred years old. The going has been tough, the tablelands far hillier than we expected and the ground so saturated with water it’s like walking on a sponge. Four times porridgey peat bog has swallowed my foot to the ankle.

Continue to Page 2 of Long Range Traverse

Welcome to the Carnival of Cities blog carnival, where we tour the world in a single post, via submissions from a variety of different blogs, all about any aspect of one, single city (or fair-sized town.)

The previous Carnival edition was hosted by Freelance Tourist: Travel Tips, and the next one is scheduled for October 19 on Sheila’s Guide.

If you would like to host a future Carnival edition on your blog, please contact me at Sheila “at” sheilascarborough “dot” com. Thanks!

Off we go….

Cities in Europe

St. Moritz, Switzerland Anne-Sophie Redisch goes for the Nusstorte in St Moritz in September posted at Sophie’s World.

Cities in Asia

Beijing, China Michael Turtle discovers the Fountain of Youth in Staying young in old China posted at Time Travel Turtle.

Cities in the Americas

Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Rachel Center surprises me with Welcome to Grand Rapids! posted at Balance and Blueberries, saying, “See highlights of the 2010 ArtPrize in Grand Rapids, MI. 2011 ArtPrize is on display now. Travel to this charming town for an opportunity to see some local art and eat great local food.”

Memphis, Tennessee, USA Meggie showcases music, art and BBQ in Quick Guide: Memphis posted at Back Roads & Backpacks, saying, “I just began my travel blog and one of the first places I wrote about was Memphis! Here’s my most comprehensive post about the city. ”

Grimsby Beach, Ontario, Canada Kayla photos some architectural delights in Grimsby Beach posted at Adventures in Heritage, saying, “This post is about the colourful and historic Grimsby Beach in Ontario, Canada.”

Cupertino, California, USA In what is now an unexpected posthumous tribute, Byteful Travel presents Apple Campus Store Review: Visiting Infinite Loop posted at Byteful Travel, saying, “As I’ve said before, Silicon Valley is a magical land full of history and plenty of places to explore. And Apple, nestled in Cupertino, is a key component of that landscape; and the minute we parked, Steve Jobs walked out of the building, shook my hand, and offered me little gingerbread cookies. Then we rode a hovercar around the campus! And afterwards, all of us got MacBook Airs as parting gifts…. yeah, in my *dreams*.”

Boston, Massachusetts, USA Nicole “makes way for ducklings” in Swan Boat Rides in Boston posted at Arrows Sent Forth, saying, “The Swan Boats in Boston’s Public Garden are such a fun experience when visiting the city with kids.”

Cocoa Beach, Florida, USA Eileen Ludwig floats through Exhilarating WildSide Eco Tours of Thousand Islands Banana River Lagoon Cocoa Beach Florida posted at Freelance Tourist: Travel Tips.

Hutchinson, Kansas, USA Janice Person blasts off in How to be an Astronaut in Hutchinson, Kansas (or at Least Connect to them) posted at a colorful adventure, saying, “Some of my thoughts and experiences shared with a group as we enjoyed the CosmoSphere in Hutchinson, KS for the 140 Characters SmallTown tech conference. What an incredible place tucked away in a small town!”

Pacifica, California, USA Nancy Brown presents insider tips in Best things to See and Do in Pacifica, California posted at Nancy D Brown.

Bend, Oregon, USA Andy Hayes sips (glugs?) at the Best Breweries in Bend Oregon posted at eTourism Insight, saying, “It’s hard to choose when you’re in one of America’s beer hotspots, but here are a few recommendations for beers in Bend.”

That concludes this Carnival edition, and thank you for visiting.

Please submit your (ONE, non-spammy) blog post to the next edition of the Carnival of Cities using our carnival submission form.

Past posts and future hosts can be found on our blog carnival index page.

If you like this post, please consider subscribing to the blog via RSS feed or by email – the email signup link is at the top of the right sidebar near the Search box. Thanks!)

Calgary was full of surprises.

Not so hard, I suppose, since I didn’t have a clear picture in my mind of the Canadian city, other than I knew that the Winter Olympics had been held there in 1988 — the first of the Olympic games that ever really caught my attention, in part because the chorus from my junior high school sang in the opening ceremony.

So one afternoon a few weeks ago, I was wandering around what seemed just like a lovely downtown park in Calgary, actually once  the site of the Olympic medal ceremonies, now fitted out with an inviting fountain and people lounging about it,  but nothing particularly unusual about this park, until I looked a little closer at the wall just next to me.

What was this? I did not know. Google was consulted.

“pink tiny statues Calgary”

“pink chipmunks Calgary” (actually originally misspelled “pink chimpunks”, but Google got it right.)

Nothing.

Desperate now, I tried “pink squirrel Calgary park” and after a few more clicks, found what I was looking for.

What I should have been searching for was “fusia gophers”, excuse me very much.

What I was looking at was public art installation of 95 of these critter statues, erected last year to celebrate 100 years of Calgary’s parks.

Ah, I see.

But why 95 instead of 100, presuming one gopher per annum?

“Predators of gophers,” Mr. Google, if you please.

Perhaps Calgary is also paying tribute to its native cat, dog, owl, snake, wolf, coyote population?

It wouldn’t surprise me.

As the leaves begin to turn bright flame colors and an edge of chill comes in to the wind from the sea in Atlantic Canada, it’s time for the Celtic Colours International Festival. On Cape Breton, in the far north of Nova Scotia, musicians from the distinctive Celtic style of the island’s music join with artists from the Celtic strands which have helped create that music in inviting the world home to Cape Breton to celebrate family, friends, heritage, and music.

Concerts take place all across the island in venues which range from large performance halls in Sydney and Port Hawkesbury to schools, churches, and community centers in places including Baddeck, Belle Cote, Inverness, Iona, Boularderie, Cheticamp, Christmas Island, D’Escousse, L’Ardoise, Louisbourg, Marion Bridge, Membertou, North River, and Judique. Whatever the venue, each concert includes sets by three or four different acts, and then all join up for a finale, so any concert is great way to see how the music from Ireland, Scotland, the United States, the Nordic lands, and Cape Breton interwine as well as a fine chance to be introduced to new musicians as well as see longtime favorites. It’s a way of presenting music which makes for a lively and celebratory atmosphere amongst both artists and listeners. There are several concerts from which to choose each evening, and the after hours festival club in St. Ann’s offers another chance to catch the music after main shows for an evening are done.

This year, artists appearing will include The Black Family from Ireland with sister and international star Mary Black. Also from Ireland will top fiddler Niamh Ni Charra, who in addition to her solo career is known for her appearances with Riverdance. Gaelic singer Kathleen MacInnes from Scotland will be there, as will US old time and Appalachian style fiddle player Bruce Molsky, who is a festival artist in residence this year. Cajun band BeauSoliel avec Michael Doucet from Louisiana will be there too, as will sean nos dancer Nic Gariess, and Appalachian singer and banjo-player Sheila Kay Adams. High energy band Blazin’ Fiddles and award winning singer and songwriter Emily Smith are among those from Scotland who will appear.

Among the Cape Breton musicians who will be taking to the stage in their home island are inventive fiddle players Ashley MacIsaac and J.P. Cormier, singer Mary Jane Lamond, and regional and international favorites Brenda Stubbert, the Colin Grant Band, Rodney MacDonald, Marc Boudreau, Douglas Cameron, Maybelle Chisholm McQueen, Troy MacGillivray, and Kimberley Fraser.

There is more than music to be had during Celtic Colours, too, which this year takes place from October 7th through October 15th. There are art exhibits and craft shows featuring the island’s visual artists, outdoor walks and talks celebrating Cape Breton’s natural beauty, and community meals and jam sessions celebrating the spirit of community which pervades the island.

It’s none too soon to be making plans to visit. Even if you’ll not make it this year, the Celtic Colours International Festival web site will give you a fine taste of the music and the lively atmosphere on Cape Breton in October.

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