Archive for February, 2011

Land of legends: Ireland in winter

Wednesday, February 16th, 2011

In winter, Ireland takes on a character of quiet and mystical reserve even more than it has during flourishing days of summer or the unsettled weather of spring and autumn. You catch a hint of this as daylight turns early to night in the cities ands towns. Once you get beyond them, though, the idea of Ireland as a land of legends becomes apparent in what you see around you every moment of every day.

cooley mountain mist2 copyright kerry dexter
pjs hearth eire copyright kerry dexter
mournes in winter2 copyright kerry dexter

A bit of music which arises from these landscapes and ideas
T with the Maggies
the farthest wave

These photographs were taken in Down and Louth, and are copyrighted. Thank you for respecting this.

A Traveler in Space

Tuesday, February 15th, 2011

As my trip to Houston grew closer, I kept telling people about how excited I was to see the Space Center — the visitor’s center that’s a part of the Johnson Space Center, the place where astronauts are trained, the place where space missions are controlled.

The only thing was, I kept calling it “The Space Station”.

It was no mere slip of the tongue,  I’m afraid. The Space Station, after all, is shorthand for the International Space Station, which just celebrated its 10th anniversary in orbit — and you don’t have to search very far into my psyche to reveal my desire to go into space.  Astronaut material I am not, nor have ever been, however — and so while I wait for space tourism to become a reality, I satisfy myself in two ways: by visiting terrestrial attractions that are space related, and with space-related science fiction.

I’ll have more to say about both of these over the next few weeks — the places I’ve visited, how fiction has influenced those choices, and more about what happened at the Space Center that day,  and experience which, I’ll say right now, was everything I could have hoped for, I even got a little weepy.

Astronaut Training at Johnson Space Center, Houston

But for now, I’d like to fast forward to my return back to New York, when an announcement on the cab’s television startled me: it was the 25th anniversary of the day the Space Shuttle Challenger exploded.

I’d been pondering the disaster for the days after my visit to The Space Center, because that incident had really been my introduction to the United States space program. I was 12 when it happened, and I was watching the launch in school, because teacher Christa McAuliffe was on that mission. My visual memory of the explosion is vivid — it was the first piece of human history I’d ever watched unfold before my very eyes. (And I was startled in the cab because in my memory, it was warm outside when it happened, I’m likely conflating it with my memories of 9/11  — which shows, once again, how little you can trust your memory.)

When I confessed my space geek status to Roger Bornstein, the Space Center’s director of marketing,  he said that that was unusual for someone of my age. The glory days of human space travel were over by the time I was able to pay attention. So why do I like space so much? Why am I so drawn to it? Why, when my flight into Houston was delayed, did I decide to skip lunch and race to the Space Center because I felt like I couldn’t stand the disappointment if I missed it?

Saturn V Rocket at Houston Space Center

I’ve got two theories I’m working on, which may be entirely compatible or in total contradiction to one another, I’m not sure yet.  I found them both in a book called Beyond Earth: The Future of Humans in Space, a collection of papers that look at everything from the practicalities of building a city on the moon to matters philosophical.

The first: “Our idea of space is largely a reflection of what’s inside ourselves,”  a mirror of our hopes, fears, desires, imaginations, writes Langdon Morris, one of the book’s editors.

The second:”The Overview Effect”, which is the experience that humans have when they are in orbit or on the moon, and are looking back at Earth. It’s a realignment of their entire way of thinking, writes Frank White, who starts his paper with this rather awkward quote from Apollo 9 astronaut Russell L. Schweickart: “…that whole process of what you identify with begins to shift. When you go around the Earth in an hour and a half, you begin to recognize that your identity is with that whole thing.”

I get what he’s saying: suddenly, that “thing” you’re identifying with, where your whole life and its dramas have unfolded, the place where everything you’ve ever known and everyone you’ve ever loved is — it all just looks pretty small.

That’s just not an experience that I’d like to have — it’s a broader perspective that I think I crave.


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All photos by Alison Stein Wellner.

Awards for Great Travel Writing

Monday, February 14th, 2011

It might not be as big or as well known as the Oscars but for travel writers, winning a gold, silver, or bronze NATJA (North American Travel Journalist Association) award is a big deal.

Focusing on travel writing, photography and travel promotion submitted by travel journalists, travel magazines, public relations agencies and destination marketing organizations, the NATJA have been honouring the “best of the best” for almost two decades. 

This year has been no exception. Over 500 submissions vied for the chance to win gold, silver or bronze in 61 award categories that covered all forms of travel writing from print to online.  

Overall, the lineup of award winners is a virtual who’s who of travel writers, including Keith Bellows, editor-in-chief of National Geographic Traveler magazine,  who was named winner of the inaugural “Spirit of Kalliope Award” for overall achievement in travel journalism.

And among the ‘best of the best’  is Perceptive Travel Webzine and blog editor Tim Leffel who picked up a handful of awards, including a  Silver for this Perceptive Travel story – Two Wheels, Two Drinks: Biking Through America’s Heartland.

Another Perceptive Travel article,  One Upon a Time in Vienna by Amy Rosen, scored a Gold as well. 

Discover who won what for yourself by checking out the NATJA 2010 Awards webpage.

Music for Valentine’s Day

Saturday, February 12th, 2011

It’s easy to find songs about love. It is not so easy to find songs that say something original and enduring about it. Here are five which do so in ways varied and engaging. They could be just the soundtrack for your Valentine’s Day.

Top artists including Martina McBride, Patty Loveless, Etta james, and George Strait have recorded Gretchen Peters’ songs, so you know she’s got the talent. She often prefers to write about love indirectly, and that’s the case with her song Northern Lights. It is a quiet, contemplative, and passionate look at holding love in the stillness of the moment. It’s the title track to Peters’ Christmas album, but it works very well as a love song for any season.

When she does her song Carrick-a-rede in concert, Cathie Ryan has good fun with the fact that there are not too many Irish love songs from the tradition which have happy endings, a fact which helped inspire her to write the song. The lovers end up together in Ryan’s song, but they have to cross the rope bridge for which the song is named to do so. It’s a real bridge, in County Antrim incathie ryan somewhere along the road album cover Northern Ireland, and it offers an eighty foot drop into the cold sea should you miss your step. That sort of journey, Ryan says, reminds her of the risks and the joys of holding on and letting go that happen when you give your heart. “And some people just take it as a story about a couple going off to have a romp, too,” the songwriter says, laughing, “and that’s perfectly fine.” You’ll find Carrick a Rede on Ryan’s album Somewhere Along the Road.

There are good times to be had by the farmer and his wife in the song The Plooman, too. The gentle affection shown by the farmer’s wife on seeing her husband come home tired and weary turns into pride and laughter as he turns that emily smith jamie mcclenasn album coveridea around with a bit of lively dancing in this song by Robert Burns. Though he wrote it in Scotland more than two centuries ago, it holds emotions listeners across the world today will recognize and share. You’ll find a fine version of it by Emily Smith and Jamie McClennan on their album called Adoon Winding Nith.

Carrie Newcomer writes serious and passionate songs, songs about the challenges of life and the mysteries of faith — and she knows all that requires a good sense of carrie newcomer gathering of spirits album coverhumor, too. Her sense of humor is the guiding idea when the Indiana based musician looks at loving and growing older in her song called Silver. Whatever your age, you’ll very likely get a chuckle out of the questions she asks in the song, and enjoy the affirmation of hope and lasting love that comes through the humor. Silver is on Newcomer’s album The Gathering of Spirits.

You could see John O’ Dreams as a lullabye for a child, or for a lover. You could see it as a song to sing with friends around the fireside, or a quiet way to end an evening of celebration, perhaps, your Valentine’s Day celebration. Susan and Stephen Lindsay’s laid back, informal take on the song from their album From the Green to the Blue, which I’ve linked to here, is one that well suits the spirit of the song.

Bangkok: The Return

Friday, February 11th, 2011

Bangkok

Grilled slices of baby bananas on wooden sticks. A steaming basket of sticky rice and a fresh som tam (prik sam met), with raw green beans and tall bottles of Chang to blunt and otherwise alleviate the heat. Buses spewing plumes of black smoke as they round the busy intersection at Petchaburi and Ratchadamri. Tranquil pre-dusk walks around Lumpini Park, taking the across-town khlong to Phanfa Pier, Friday night muay thai boxing at Lumpini Stadium. The noise, the pollution, the oppressive heat, the flustered and dehydrated tourists… and me, loving every bit of it.

Oh, Bangkok, it’s been far too long; nearly 19 months, in fact. I’ve obviously missed you, and I’m obviously going to give you a big hug next week.

All the pre-moving stuff (doctor appts and meds, bills, subletter, cat, packing, etc.) is getting wrapped up this weekend, and Wednesday I’ll hop aboard a Cathay Pacific flight bound direct for Hong Kong, then onto Suvarnabhumi Airport. (Thank you, BA miles, for enabling my first-ever flight in business class.) Three nights are booked at the Amari Watergate, during which time I’ll pound the pavement and find our new home for the next 6 months.

Yes, we’ll need a few days to get settled, but don’t worry, Bangkok, we’ll have plenty of time to catch up. I can’t wait.