Highlights of the Pacific Coast Highway: natural beauty and driving bliss
Thursday, April 30th, 2009
(This is a guest post by Jamie Jensen, author of Road Trip USA – the fifth and newest edition was just released – and its companion pocket guides, Pacific Coast Highway and Route 66. To celebrate the new edition, check out his personalized trip planning for readers on his blog.
I’ve used previous versions of Road Trip USA quite extensively on my own US road trips, and I’ve always liked Jamie’s detailed descriptions of lesser-known attractions, bits of history and friendly, humorous writing style. Here is why he loves the Pacific Coast Highway….)
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Riding my bike across the Golden Gate Bridge the other day, I had a flash of insight into what makes my best travel experiences. Like most people, I am wowed by natural beauty yet also appreciate the sybaritic comforts of civilization, so perhaps it’s no great surprise to hear that my personal travel nirvanas occur where nature and culture converge.
What surprised me was recognizing the third component of travel bliss: being in motion, which adds a tangible sense of dynamism and excitement to an otherwise passive pleasure.
When I think about my other favorite spots around the world, the same relationship emerges again and again. Much as I love the sights and sounds of, say Venice, what I remember most about it is the experience of riding through it, on a gondola, a vaporetto, or best of all—on a speedboat racing like James Bond across the lagoon.
Closer to home, the same trinity still applies. As with the Golden Gate Bridge, travel magic is made by the combination of natural scenery and human interest (beautiful buildings and bridges always seem to work best for me), magnified by the possibility of moving through the scene, either on foot or bike or (most likely, especially for us Californians!), in a car.
Back on the bridge, I thought about where else I’ve found such perfect combinations, and as I drew up my mental list of world’s most gorgeous places, the West Coast claimed honors again and again. Which made me think: if you like rugged mountains, primeval forests, cliff-backed oceans, all within easy reach of charming towns, comfortable beds and very good food, there’s nothing better than the Pacific Coast Highway.
Known in shorthand as “PCH”, and famous for the photogenic Golden Gate Bridge and the stretch of Hwy-1 along central California’s redwood forested cliffs of Big Sur, the Pacific Coast Highway offers unforgettable experiences almost its entire length, from the northwest tip of Washington all the way to Mexico. Even along the recently suburbanized southern stretches, there are still a few surviving flashes of brilliance in the form of Laguna Beach and other well-protected environs, but most of the other highpoints are found in the northern half, between San Francisco and Seattle.
In California, a stretch of the old Pacific Coast Highway known as the “Avenue of the Giants” winds its way through miles of the world’s tallest trees, some of which are so massive you can drive your car through tunnels cut right through them.
Nearby, fascinating old towns like Arcata and Eureka offer gourmet food and drink, as well as a taste of the “alternative” lifestyles California is so famous for.
Continuing north, the coast of Oregon rivals the splendors of Big Sur as PCH makes it way around rugged headlands like Cape Perpetua, while quaint towns like Cannon Beach and Bandon offer comforts you will appreciate after a day rolling along the Pacific Coast Highway, on two wheels or behind the wheel.
At the far north end of PCH, in Washington’s Olympic National Park, series of unimaginably lush green, jungle-like valleys form the only official “rainforests” in the USA, ranged along rivers at the foot of permanently snow-capped peaks.
Home comforts are offered in the old logging town of Forks (recently famous for its role as location for the teen vampire film “Twilight”), and even more so midway to Seattle in the under-appreciated Victorian arts community of Port Townsend.
All these unforgettable travel experiences are linked, and their pleasures magnified, by the narrow black 1000-mile ribbon of the Pacific Coast Highway. So get out there and drive some today!
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By Jamie Jensen
Author, Road Trip USA: Cross-Country Adventures on America’s Two-Lane Highways

In a country as large as America, visiting your nation’s capital is something like losing your virginity. You might have scoffed at the place and the flotsam of politicians, lobbyists, honest-to-goodness conscientious hard workers, and career climbers who make up the mental atmosphere inside the Beltway. Or you might have revered the place, imagining it as the repository of all that was pure in democracy. Washington, D.C., a magnet for the pond scum of human ambition, or the shining city on the hill.
The Washington Monument, that monument to phallic male power dreams, towers over the National Mall to such an extent that you could make an argument for George Washington’s ghost keeping a sharp eye on Congress, operating out of the humbling or reviled (depending on your take) classic pile of marble known as the U.S. Capitol building (pictured at top).
Which is partly, it seems to me, why the White House itself is such a modest building. It never looks like one on TV. It looks huge and impressive. But there are plenty of mansions and McMansions here in the Hudson Valley that cram their residents’ striving for power and influence much more forcefully down your throat. Going by the ideals of American democracy – the ideals, not necessarily the practice – the president’s residence should be a wholly unpretentious building. Small, relatively human-sized, accessible (even if, with modern security, that access is only an illusion), and, most important, answerable to the people walking outside its doors.
No part of this city better represents its place as the home of representational democracy than the National Mall, a seemingly endless length of grass and walkways hogging most of the center of town. San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and New York’s Central Park could only dream of the breathing room this place gives its residents. No fancy landscaping, not a whole lot of shade except on the edges, and heaving with tourists, the National Mall is a natural magnet for romping children, picnicking teenagers, and anyone taking their legs for a good long stretch.
First stop was 