Archive for July, 2008

Evening Is the Whole Day, by Preeta Samarasan

Friday, July 18th, 2008

Samarasan Cover When I closed Preeta Samarasan’s first book, Evening Is the Whole Day, I sat for a time, watching my tea grow cold and watching my son chew on a polished bit of cedar wood, and tried to figure out what I was feeling. After a time (and rescuing of small black cat from being bonked by said cedar wood), the word floated by: gratitude.

Samarasan is a new writer on the scene, and her densely woven story is not only steeped in Malaysian history, culture, turmoil, and richness, but is written by a woman who knows what it is to write. And when you’re inundated daily by hundreds of slapdash, self-indulgent travelogues and truly crappy bestselling novels, a well-crafted book by a new writer is not only like breathing clean air after years of pollution, it gives one hope for a literary future. And for that I am grateful.

Knowing this was Samarasan’s first book, and wary of the accolades comparing her writing to Salman Rushdie and Arundhati Roy, I read it carefully, looking for weakness and derivation. I found none. Instead, what I found was a narrative that reminded me far more of Isabel Allende’s earlier books than these other two world-class writers. Samarasan’s story is more accessible than Rushdie’s, and her structure is more organic and satisfying than Roy’s.

Like Allende, Samarasan laces family tragedy and mystique with the larger political and social tragedies in Malaysia’s recent history. But her focus remains more tightly on the family in question and its troubled members, a focus peculiarly satisfying. The Indian family at the center of the story are dealing with struggles both personal and political: a father whose political/social ideals fall to pieces when riots overturn his and his colleagues’ dreams of progress and equality, and whose personal hopes fall apart when the meek woman he marries turns out to be shallow and sexually frigid; his wife, who couches herself in irritable anger and petty revenges the more her children and mother-in-law show up her less agile mind and humbler background; the children themselves, caught between parents whose misery at their failed marriage rains a constant acid atmosphere on their upbringing, and who are too intelligent not to feel it. And there is the servant Chellam, ill-used, misunderstood, bewildered, and eventually thrown back to her drunken father and desperately poor family.

Most of the story is seen poignantly from the eyes of six-year-old Aasha. This gentle girl, friendly with ghosts and worshipful of her older sister, aches for love and has so many disappointments to bear that she wrings my heart. By the end of the book my maternal heart wanted to shower her with love and affection.

But it is the atmosphere of Malaysia that makes the family’s story live. Although Samarasan moved to the US when she was in high school, it is clear that her early life in Malaysia enriches every particle of narrative, backed by careful research and her continued contact with her hometown. The descriptions are rich and the narrative style speaks of a writer confident in her voice: “The night before Uma leaves for America is so hot that people wake up drenched in their beds. At dawn the sparrows are neither seen nor heard,” begins the last chapter. “By nine o’clock, leaves, flowers, hair, spirits, resolve, and biscuits left on breakfast tables are turning limp. Butter melts. Men sit under ceiling fans with their knees wide apart, wiping their backs and bellies with the cotton singlets they’ve pulled off.”

I read those lines with relief, knowing that, in the last chapter, Samarasan’s writing would not falter. Just as strong at the end as at the beginning. And I was grateful. I’ll be keeping an eye out for this talented author in the future.

(Evening Is the Whole Day is out in hardcover in the US, Canada, and the UK.)

Finding the Finger Lakes

Wednesday, July 16th, 2008

Taughahannock Falls, Finger Lakes regionWhen I first moved to New York state, I was prey to all the assumptions and stereotypes that pop to mind when the words “New York” end up in a sentence. “New York … that’s city, right? No trees, no open space, no peace. Just city.”

Well, I was wrong then and was a little ashamed last 4th of July weekend to find myself wrong again. Where I live, 60 miles north (and slightly west) of Manhatten, there’s still a country look to the place, but it’s being eroded pretty quickly by exurbia, that rural bastardization of suburbia. (Note: For a discussion of the definition and lifestyle of Exurbia, visit the Exurbitude blog — today, as a bonus, the author has a very funny description of trying to move the goat paddock at my house last weekend. Let’s just say none of us are born herders.)

Taughahannock FallsSo when we drove out the whole three hours to the university town of Ithaca in the Finger Lakes region of New York, I expected to find something pretty similar. And did I? Nope. Of course not. Because wherever I go, what I find is not what I expected. With its vast lakes, wide farmlands and winery fields, and air much less humid and much more cool than it is where I live, I could have been in a different country. My surprise came despite the fact that I’ve long been an admirer of Ronda Roaring’s Web site, I Love the Finger Lakes.

Lamore Landing WineryAnd how I do! I’m a convert. As opposed to the dusty, hot unpleasantness of Napa (relive my experience here), the Finger Lakes wineries boast cool breezes, sweet wines and some unusual merlots, and unbeatable views down to massive lakes. Looking down to Cayuga Lake at the Lamore Landing Winery, we could have been back in Scotland.

We only had three short days in the Finger Lakes, but I’ll be going back. To visit the bird sanctuaries at the Cornell University lab, to shop again at the Ithaca farmer’s market, to hike the umpteen trails through hidden woods and quiet hills.

More people should see the rest of New York state. Because that smidgeon of an island, that little city-state of New York City that enthrals so many, is simply the back door to places far more beautiful, restful, and worth seeing.

The melting pot still stirs

Monday, July 14th, 2008

Aisle sign, Hong Kong Food Market in Houston, Texas (Scarborough photo)These two photos were taken in a giant Asian market and in a small Czech/German bakery.

Where are these food emporiums?

Both are in Texas.

On a recent road trip to Houston, we stopped in the Czech and German stronghold of La Grange.

(Yes, it was THAT La Grange, made famous by the rock band ZZ Top and the Chicken Ranch brothel from the musical “The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas.”)

Homemade noodles, Weikel’s Bakery, La Grange Texas (Scarborough photo)

Along with some de-lish Czech kolaches and pigs-in-blankets (bread-wrapped sausage,) the Weikel’s Bakery product line includes bags of fresh, homemade noodles.

There are plenty of store patrons who still make “schnitzel with noodles,” if you remember Fraulein Maria’s favorites in the “Sound of Music.”

Many Czechs and Germans settled in this part of the state starting in the 1840s and 1850s; that’s why sausage is a big deal with our BBQ,  Spoetzl Brewery’s Shiner beer is popular, there are active Texas polka radio stations and you can find kolaches (a fruit or cheese-filled Czech pastry) in a small town between Austin and Houston.

Sprawling Houston (quite a boomtown these days, according to Newsweek) has numerous ethnic enclaves.

The Hong Kong Food Market that we visited was one of four; it anchors a large Asian population in the southwestern part of the city.  The “Hong Kong” in the name is a misnomer - the products were Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai and Korean.

The live catfish that was yanked out of its tank in the seafood section and gutted on the spot (while still flopping) was almost as mesmerizing as the rows of interesting foodstuffs.

Hmm, catfish with some hoisin sauce on top of noodles, maybe?

Visit Houston in October for their big Asian Festival, held every year since 1979.

Related posts:

PT Travel Linkfest for 14 July 2008

Sunday, July 13th, 2008

Here’s a roundup of useful travel-related links for your Monday perusal:

Places to Visit

Tips and Advice

  • Is couch-surfing really just for “getting laid?” Those randy Aussies look for answers in the Sydney Morning Herald.
  • Domino magazine decorating resources, organized by city (not that shopping for household stuff is at ALL important when one travels….)
  • Lifehacker’s Gina Trapani gives detailed, specific and useful advice on taking your laptop and other electronics to Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand.
  • Man in Seat 61 shows you five cool alternatives to five high-end train trips.
  • My Mother’s Day gift, an iPod, is about to get a load of National Geographic Traveler’s country and city specific music playlists from iTunes.

Putumayo Jams Out in Central Park

Friday, July 11th, 2008

One of the planet’s leading producers of world music CDs, Putumayo, is hosting a massive concert in New York City’s Central Park in a couple of weeks. Thanks to editor Tim Leffel for this link to Putumayo’s FREE concert, to celebrate the company’s 15th anniversary, being held in Central Park, July 27th from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.

You can’t beat it. Featuring the Taj Mahal Trio (on Putumayo’s American Blues CD), the Skatalites (Jamaican, featured on The Caribbean CD), and Los Pinguos (an Argentinian band that showed up on Putumayo’s Latin Baila! CD), the concert promises to be one hopping, stomping, dancing, gorgeous frenzy of a world music celebration.

Putumayo CDs take up a good portion of my music shelves — since I can’t keep up with emerging and classic world music all on my own, I rely on Putumayo to introduce me to some of the best music from around the world. Hard to believe they’ve been around for half my life already, makes me feel old.

In honor of its 15th anniversary, the company is also releasing new CDs of African music: African Party, and African Dreamland for kids. Worth getting out my dancing ankle bangles for!