Archive for April, 2008

Addicted to Maps.

Sunday, April 27th, 2008

There’s just something about a map. All folded up, it appears somewhat insignificant. But open it up and it’s potential seems endless. Suddenly you have a city, a state, a country, or the world at your fingertips.

I’ve been hooked on maps for as long as I can remember. First, it was the National Geographic maps that arrived in the mailbox with the magazine. They offered up the world in technicolor and through them I discovered the historic places of the Middle East and Europe and the disappearing cultures of the Incas, Aztecs, and Apache.

From there, it was an easy jump to road maps. My mother might have been the real navigator on family road trips around Europe and the USA, but I was map ready. Sitting in the back seat, I would follow and trace our journeys on the map, more than willing to point out where we were or where we were going. For me, the highlight of each trip was how many new maps I scored at local tourist offices.

It’s a habit I’ve yet to grow out of. I am simply addicted to maps.

On recent trips I have tried to go high tech. I used MapQuest to help navigate my way through the Los Angeles freeways and Google Earth to determine the location of hotels in central Madrid. I even downloaded the NYC subway map onto my iPod. But in the end, it was the paper map that I turned to for direction.

Don’t get me wrong. I love having even more avenues to explore maps. Google Earth is great. So is MapQuest. The internet has opened up total map access. Anytime I want a map, all I have to do is click on a map store, a tourist office, or do a google search and the map will appear.

There are even dedicated map blogs to visit…

The Map Room

Strange Maps

Cartophilia

But it’s the paper maps that will travel with me. 

New Zealand Wine Country.

Saturday, April 26th, 2008

New Zealand really is wine country. From the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island, there are vineyards and wineries everywhere. Wine making is not new to New Zealand. The first grape vines were planted in Northland in 1819 and New Zealand’s first winery, Mission Estates, was established in 1851 and is still going strong.

With numerous wine regions, New Zealand is a true wine lovers paradise. There are over 500 wineries in New Zealand, most of which are open to the public and happy to provide tastings. You might even have the winemaker themselves serving you.

Some miscellaneous New Zealand wine facts…

* New Zealand is home to not only the world’s most easterly wine region (Gisborne) but also the world’s southernmost wine region (Otago)

* There are more wine festivals in New Zealand than there are wine regions. Top festivals (every February) include the Marlborough Wine Festival and the Hawke’s Bay Wine Festival.

* Move star Sam Neil of Jurassic Park fame owns Two Paddocks, a winery in Gibbston, Central Otago.

* New Zealand wine makers are always calling out for workers during harvest season, so why not help make the wine as well as taste the wine. Here’s the when, where, and how.

Anyone considering a trip to New Zealand Wine Country should pick up a copy of Classic New Zealand Wine Trail Guide to point you in the right direction. This free guide is available at all wine region information centers or you can order it online.

The Things We Carry

Friday, April 25th, 2008

Pico Iyer’s commentary about Graham Greene’s novel The Quiet American (see previous post) left me curious about something. And since my husband and I are in a mild state of panic about taking our 8-month-old on his first transatlantic flight tomorrow, I’d much rather babble about my curiosity on a blog post than, say, pack. (My worry: Baby John is teething again and will keep everyone up all night crying. Husband’s worry: We’ll have so much luggage and be so distracted by baby John that we’ll be sitting ducks as mugger-targets in Rome’s train station and have all our bags swiped.)

The combination of trying to figure out the minimum necessary to pack for a baby and Iyer’s comment that that he never travels without Greene’s novel got me thinking: what are the things that you, as a traveler, thinker, human being, never travel without? Iyer says The Quiet American is a kind of “personal bible” that he always has tucked into the outside of his carry-on when he travels.

I don’t have any personal bibles, but I do have things I can’t imagine leaving home without. As a writer, I obviously never travel without pen and paper. Pencils I do not love, so it’s gotta be a pen — preferably more than one, just in case. I’m also addicted to those little Moleskine journals — unlined and blank, with the pocket in the back — but to be honest I find a small pile of index cards to be one of the most useful tools ever.

And a book. Of course. I can’t imagine breathing without a book. Mostly I try to read something related to the place I’m going to. A novel, preferably, unless I come up with a travel classic like Thubron or Chatwin or Morris. Most modern travel books I find, frankly, too shallow. That is, they’re less about the place than they are about the bumbling adventures of the writer. I’m just not interested. But for a trip like this, that’s a bit spur of the moment and where I’ll be revisiting old haunts, I’m just as likely to scrounge among the 38 books in my to-be-read pile and take anything that looks interesting.

The ideas we take that could be cliches but that they’re real: curiosity, a sense of adventure, an open mind, a willingness to learn and be taught. The memorization of please, thank you, where is the bathroom, etc., in any language. A map.

But there’s one thing that I no longer carry and it still rankles, every time. The exciting prospects of travel dip a little with the removal of my pocket knife from my handbag. Now this is a stickler. Honestly, among anyone reading this, who used to travel without a pocket knife? I never did. I’d be just as likely to leave a finger behind as one of my knives. I’ve got a selection of them: the old multi-use and heavy Swiss Army knife that used to be my grandfather’s and really needs a cleaning, the tiny Victorinox flat knife set that almost as slim as a credit card and holds all sort of random tools (like an LED light and, yay, a pen the size of a toothpick), the lightweight knife with a jagged edge that my mountain-man stepfather gave me, and my favorite, the slightly heavy but small and simple knife with a smooth wooden handle that my sister and her Texas-native husband sent from Houston.

I really, really miss traveling without a knife. At home I’ve always got one in my handbag, ready to open packages, slice an apple, or pop out a tightly wedged battery. I’ve used it to whittle willow sticks for roasting marshmallows and for jiggling open the back of my computer keyboard. I never dreamed of leaving behind this simple little tool when I traveled until — well, you know. We’re just not allowed anymore.

It’s always one of the last things I do before leaving for the airport. Got passport, check. Got credit or debit card just in case, check. Got water bottle, yup. Got a book to read, always. Got knife? Whoops. I slide it out of the pocket where it usually jostles around with my lip balm and a few index cards, and leave it on the kitchen counter. Always with regret and not a little annoyance.

Pico Iyer’s must-read travel book? A Graham Greene novel.

Wednesday, April 23rd, 2008

The Quiet American, Graham GreenePico Iyer was the most recent contributor to National Public Radio’s series “You Must Read This.” On Monday he elucidated — in beautiful prose only Iyer is capable of — the reasons why Graham Greene’s novel The Quiet American is a book he never travels without. “[I] have it always with me in my carry-on, a private bible,” he says.

And why? Not just for Greene’s almost eerie talent for predicting the outcomes of political and military tangles in Vietnam. “What touches me in the book is something even deeper and more personal,” says Iyer. “The novel asks every one of us what we want from a foreign place, and what we are planning to do with it. It points out that innocence and idealism can claim as many lives as the opposite, fearful cynicism. And it reminds me that the world is much larger than our ideas of it.”

The above link will take you to the transcript of Iyer’s mini-essay. Read it now, not just to encourage yourself to reread Greene’s classic, but also for a mid-week taste of the very best kind of writing — travel or otherwise.

Texas temple of gastronomy

Tuesday, April 22nd, 2008

Finding some good greens at the Austin, TX flagship Whole Foods (courtesy Whole Foods)Love it or hate it, the US-based grocery chain Whole Foods has changed how many Americans shop for their meals.

With stores open in Canada and the UK, their passion for nicely-presented, good food is now spreading worldwide.

This ain’t your crunchy Mom’s food co-op with a bunch of dusty jars of tahini spread, and it’s not cheap to indulge in all of their yummy products (hence the derisive term “Whole Paycheck.”)

No other store, however, can make a stack of yellow squash look quite so divine.

I remember shopping occasionally at the very first Whole Foods, when I was a student at the University of Texas at Austin and they opened in 1980. Just walking into the store made me want to stop eating processed garbage and start feeding myself only the best “natural” stuff.

That usually lasted until I saw the cash register total at the checkout line, but it was a noble idea, anyway. Back to the processed ramen, eh?

These days, the flagship store, along with company headquarters, is still in downtown Austin and has become something of a tourism landmark. It’s 80,000 square feet of every kind of food product that you can imagine:

  • an in-house seafood smoker
  • the most obscure locally-sourced goat cheese
  • an elaborate nut bar with nuts you’ve never heard of that you can roast right there
  • a fab walk-in beer cooler with handcrafted brews from everywhere
  • an olive and antipasti bar
  • a weekly farmer’s market in the parking lot and an ice rink in winter
  • a cooking school for mere mortals (Sainted Husband had a blast in their breadmaking class)

The bakery section is simply evil — just don’t go to the counter unless you can talk yourself out of various sugary delights. No, don’t try that “but it’s healthy sugary delights” excuse with me…. :)

I usually hustle in, grab my favorite rosemary-sourdough bread and then try not to do any further damage to my waistline or wallet.

Stop in and visit if you’re ever in Austin, and want a break from all the BBQ.

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