Archive for December, 2007

Syrian diplomat takes to the blogosphere

Friday, December 7th, 2007

The Commonwealth Club, an established public affairs forum located in San Francisco, has presented the US (through broadcasts on National Public Radio and XM Radio, among other outlets) with the widest range of speakers and ideas of any organization I have yet come across, from Bill Clinton and Bill Gates to unheard-of activists working on water rights, the direction of Russia’s future, or the effect of blogs on mainstream media, among hundreds of other speakers and issues.

Every week my local NPR station airs the Commonwealth Club’s speakers, discussions, and Q&A sessions. Last week I heard an excellent speech by Imad Moustapha, Syria’s current ambassador to the US, on America’s relations with the Middle East — Syria in particular — and how those relations have changed during the Bush administration.

This isn’t a political blog, so if you want to know what he said, you can listen for yourself (requires RealPlayer). But Moustapha is more than just a diplomat; he’s the former Dean of the Faculty of Information Technology at the University of Damascus, and Secretary General of the Arab School on Science and Technology, among other academic activities. He’s also an accomplished writer, covering many political issues but also bringing Syrian culture — books, music, and art — to the attention of a wider audience.

Moustapha’s blog (rather unimaginatively but usefully titled “Weblog of a Syrian Diplomat in America”) not only covers his encounters and experience of life in diplomatic Washington, D.C., but also has some fantastic posts on Syrian artists, complete with images of their work. He also writes book reviews, including an interesting one about his rediscovery of the 7th-century Syrian poet Labid. (Side note: I’ve tried to find more information on Labid, but it was pretty scarce, the most comprehensive being on a website called Islam Watch, a site run by ex-Muslims and dedicated to deconstructing information about Islam.)

Like the best personal blogs, Ambassador Moustapha’s is thoughtful, cultured, and informative. Would that all diplomats were the same.

PT video: penny whistle mini-concert in Virginia

Thursday, December 6th, 2007

This is a video of two costumed historical interpreters at the Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia living history museum.

The young men are playing a penny whistle and a type of drum, as shoppers peruse some handcrafted goods in a tented stall on Duke of Gloucester Street.

The annoyed teenager glaring at the camera towards the end is my daughter.  :)

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A world of Music!

Tuesday, December 4th, 2007

I guess I have learnt the hard way not to bring local booze back from my travels. Those eclectic and often lurid drinks that one so enjoys when sitting at a cafe next to the Mekong in Laos, or in a local village in Turkey just don’t translate to the gloomy London winter. The same is unfortunately true with world music. Quite a few times I have been tempted by local folk music that I have quite enjoyed on my travels, only to bring it back home and find it completely impossible to listen to for more than a few minutes. My local charity shop has been the recipient of these unwise music purchases a number of times. As far as I know they are still there - unless that is a family of homesick Nepalis have happened to wander inside!

This is why Crammed Disc is such a find. As well as CDs from noted world artists, such as the gypsy music of Taraf de Haidouks, they also produce compilation CDs such as Floating Through Walls. With 20 tracks from 20 different world albums (all of them on the Crammed Disc label) this is a veritable world tour through Latin, African, Asian and European rhythms. Obviously I didn’t like them all, but that is the point! I certainly found a number of artists that I would like to explore further.

The Crammed Disc website has music and video sample links for many of their artists, and is a great resource for choosing world music.

If your thirst for World music is still not satiated, then you could do worse than browse through the LinkTv World Music section. There are some fantastic music videos on here, including offerings from India’s Rabbi Shergil and Chilean band La Mano Ajena. This is a great site to dip into and explore!

Bahrain Rising

Tuesday, December 4th, 2007

Catching up with the news in Bahrain (courtesy jonrawlinson at flickr CC)The glossy travel magazines sure do seem to go ga-ga over Dubai these days.

Perhaps because they think their readers will 1) be impressed with all the glitz, and 2) be interested in a Middle Eastern country that doesn’t seem “so scary.”

I watch all this with bemused interest, since I spent a few years living in Bahrain as a preteen, had my 12th birthday in Iran and then returned to Bahrain for a brief visit as an adult.  Middle Eastern nouveau riche excess is not new to me and the Middle East as a whole is not particularly scary.

As with other places in the world, the most interesting thing to see in the MidEast is examples of both how things never change, and how they change tremendously.

As a kid, I vividly remember when the first fresh meat (not frozen) was shipped into Jawad Cold Store in Bahrain.  It was fresh lamb from New Zealand, and all the expat housewives went gaga.  My dad cooked up a lamb roast with fresh mint leaves tucked inside, and to this day that’s one of my favorite dishes.

The changing skyline in Manama, the capital (courtesy Pricey at flickr CC)When I returned to Bahrain as an adult, the island was completely transformed.  Jawad’s Cold Store is now the Jawad Dome, a massive, brightly-lit behemoth in downtown Manama (the capital) with a Dairy Queen out in front of it.

Yes, travel all the way to the Middle East and have a  DQ Peanut Buster Parfait

If you’re interested in travel to the Gulf area of the Middle East, consider skipping overly-hyped Dubai for Bahrain or Oman.  Bahrain in particular has long been relatively relaxed and it’s friendly to visitors; it was a British protectorate until the early 1970s and still has a large expat community.  

I know that Saudi Arabia is trying to be more open to tourism and I would love to go there personally, but as a woman I’d have to be prepared for a lot of hassle.

Links of interest about Bahrain:

Pickings were slim for much in the way of online travel articles about Bahrain; anyone out there want to hire me to go back there and write one?  :)

                       A souvenir from my time in Bahrain (Scarborough photo)

Technorati tags: travel, Bahrain, Middle East

Who ever said Russia wanted democracy?

Monday, December 3rd, 2007

Ah, Russia. It never ceases to entertain the West. Well, the news outlets call it outrage and information and “disturbing trends,” but in reality it’s more like political titillation — or entertainment at the very least.

These days I spend a lot of time sitting on the sofa, sitting and feeding an insatiable baby who wants food right now every hour and fifteen minutes (two hours if I’m really lucky). There isn’t a whole lot to do when you’re occupied with such activity, except read books, listen to the radio, and watch TV. Sounds like heaven to a lot of overworked people, but right now I daydream about uninterrupted minutes in front of the computer, or — heaven forbid — skiing.

But as I’m stuck listening to the news for longer than I want to hear it, I’ve noticed that Russia is coming up with increasing frequency, and much closer to the top of the news hour, than it used to when it was looking to go all clean and democratic and Westernised. This week it’s the denouncement of yesterday’s parliamentary elections as “not fair.” Now, notwithstanding the fact that America’s last two elections could be open to a lot of the same questioning (only the UN wouldn’t dare), what is there about Russia that has given the West a reasonable expectation that the citizens of the Great Bear have any interest in pure democracy?

Russia is a country that has had very little time to find out what it actually believes in, and democracy doesn’t hit high on its priority list. Launched from oppressive and greedy tsarism straight into a bloody revolution and then one of the worst dictatorships in modern history, Russian people wobbled into the 1990s with little idea of how to determine the course of their own country, or what direction they would choose now that they had a choice. And then what happened? An economic collapse due to the same greed of the same people who made such a mockery of socialism.

And now? The country, overseen by Putin, has some of the largest concentration of millionaires and billionaires in the world. It is positively awash in oil wealth. When I was in St. Petersburg just over a year ago, the city was undergoing public and private transformation that could only be bought by a people who had far, far more money than they knew what to do with. The influx of oil-slick cash hasn’t abated. Who cares about the freedom of the vote, or freedom of information, when you’re so darn rich?

There’s more going on than just money, though. Not only does Russia have no history of democracy, it has two mindsets antithetical to the West’s ideas (or at least Europe’s) of what free people should believe. First, Russians have a history of believing in a ruler only if he or she is strong, unquestionable, and authoritarian. Do you really want to know what percentage of the population regularly come out with, “What we need is another Stalin”? Not all Russians believe this, of course, but there are enough.

Second is an aspect that any outsiders but scholars are simply unaware of, and that is the Russians’ deep belief in themselves as the second of God’s “chosen people.” The Russian Orthodox religion is the inheritor of Byzantium, of the true church first of the Romans and then of the Ottoman Empire. It might sound a little silly, but the rise of the Evangelical right in the US is proof that populations hold fast to their deepest religious beliefs even in — or perhaps because of — what should be an age of enlightened humanitarianism. A passage from the novel The Turkish Gambit by Russian philologist and essayist Boris Akunin (pen name of Grigory Chkhartishvili) beautifully illustrates the Russian obsession with their Byzantine inheritance:

” ‘Constantinople!’ said Sobolev, his voice trembling with feeling as he gazed out through the window at the glittering lights of the great city. ‘The eternal, unattainable dream of the Russian tsars. The very roots of our faith and civilization are here. … They won’t have the courage to take what belongs to Russia by ancient right. … I see a great and powerful Russia uniting the Slavs from Archangel to Constantinople and from Trieste to Vladivostok! Only then will the Romanovs fulfill their historical destiny and finally be able to leave these eternal wars behind them and devote themselves to the improvement of their own long-suffering dominion. But if we pull back, then our sons and grandsons will once again spill their own blood and the blood of others along the road to the walls of Constantinople. Such is the cross the Russian people must bear!’ ”

On the subject of democracy Akunin’s character Erast Fandorin in the same book is even more eloquent: ” ‘ I am opposed to democracy in general. … One man is unequal to another from the very beginning, and there is nothing you can do about it. The democratic principle infringes the rights of those who are more intelligent, more talented, and harder working; it places them in the position of dependence on the foolish will of the stupid, talentless, and lazy, because society always contains more of the latter. Let our compatriots first learn to rid themselves of their swinish ways and earn the right to bear the title of citizen, and then we can start thinking about a parliament.’ ”

Obviously, not all Russians of intelligence and education feel like this. Garry Kasparov, world-famous chess champion, has been calling for more open and fair elections in Russia and leading the opposition party for some time, and a solid percentage of citizens stand behind him. But what voting citizen of a democracy has not sometimes felt the same frustration, even if unacknowledged?

Combine a distrust of your fellow citizen’s judgment with a religious bedrock that calls you one of God’s chosen people, throw on billions of dollars in natural resources just waiting to be exploited out in your vast landscape, fan a smoldering injured pride at the West’s decades-long condescension and fear over the US’s proposed missile defense system sited in Eastern Europe, and you might just put all your faith in an unbendable force like Putin, too, despite his suppression of democratic opposition and manhandling of a free media.