Archive for May, 2007

The World’s Worst Airport?

Wednesday, May 30th, 2007

Salon’s resident airline pilot Patrick Smith, who writes the weekly column “Ask the Pilot,” put up an excellent article a few days ago about his experiences in Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport, in Dakar, Senegal — what he calls “the world’s worst airport.”

Smith, whose column I always love to read, first states unequivocally that he likes airports. The idea of spending the 7 hours before his flight in a strange airport, to some people hell, is to him filled with childish anticipation. Oh, how wrong he was. You should read the whole article, but here are some excerpts:

“There are people all around, but few of them are passengers. They are touts, hawkers, vagrants, drifters, thieves — a melee of dubiously intended hangers-around, each of them eyeing you with the stubborn, languid glare of a vulture. Set against a back wall, the sole ATM is flanked by armed guards, whose duties are particularly effortless, since the machine doesn’t work.

There is nowhere to sit, no seats. Which really is all right because the worst thing you can do is cease moving. The approximately 5-to-1 scoundrel-to-passenger ratio ensures you’ll never remain unmolested for more than a few seconds. The moment you stop, somebody is hovering over your shoulder, mumbling incoherently. …

It doesn’t need to be this way. People do many things at airports: They eat, they shop, they bid farewell to loved ones. But more than anything, they wait. Airports are, if nothing else, waiting stations. Serving that purpose shouldn’t be a difficult or expensive task, especially in a country where overall expectations aren’t high. A modicum of cleanliness and functionality — somewhere to sit, something to look at, a bit of peace and quiet — will get the job done. Heck, string up a tent, give us a patch of grass to sit on and maybe a stand selling drinks, and the majority of us would be perfectly happy.”

Prompted by his slightly shamefaced love for both Miami and JFK airports (two of the most-loathed for travelers), Smith in the end invites readers to share their own “worst airport” stories, so dredge up your best.

Sensitizing the Unwary Traveler

Wednesday, May 30th, 2007

In his most recent South Florida Sun-Sentinel column, and extended add-on, the inestimable Tom Swick has gathered not only some of the quirkiest advice for travelers, but also some of the most useful. Tasty tidbits: Don’t blow your nose in Japan, and in Brazil, don’t ask, “What’s this sawdust doing on my food?”

He’s also gathered tips from various acquaintances worldwide (including yours truly on Russia) for 6 pages of “Toward a more worldly American.” My favorite is right at the top, with a whole lot of info about the intricacies of the tango floor in Argentina. But also heed the etiquette of ice in South Africa, and try not to blow your top on Malaysia.

I’m sure our Perceptive Readers have something to add!

“A Bed of Red Flowers: In Search of My Afghanistan,” Nelofer Pazira

Monday, May 28th, 2007

In her travel/memoir A Bed of Red Flowers, Pazira, a filmaker and journalist based in Toronto, shows an Afghanistan that most Western readers would find unrecognizable. Born in 1973, Pazira grew up largely in Kabul, and her family escaped first to Pakistan in 1989, then as refugees to Canada, toward the end of the Soviet occupation of her home country.

This is an important book, not for its literary quality, but for the delicacy with which it shows the force of two competing outside powers pulling a country to pieces. The Soviets tugged at one end of the rope, and the American-backed mujahidin at the other. Between them, they pulled a knot so tight that they left a country full of innocent people gasping for space to think, to breathe, to live. As the Soviets pushed themselves into Afghanistan, the other side took further refuge in more extreme religion, to mark themselves as truly holy warriors, and it was they whom the Americans supported almost unconditionally. In 2001, the U.S. government pointed to the Taliban as evil enemies, but neglected to mention that it was the American government that armed these people, put them in power, and then turned a blind eye to their extreme religious oppression and moral corruption.

The most engaging narratives involve Pazira’s childhood. As she grows up and becomes a refugee, she weaves these tales in with her secret return to Afghanistan as an adult, searching for her girlhood friend whose letters had stopped arriving. She later co-performed and co-produced the movie Kandahar, loosely based on this failed search for her friend Diana.

The book starts out slowly enough (despite the tale of the child Pazira visiting her father in prison), exacerbated by the journalistic distance that Pazira excels at, that I had serious doubts about whether it was going to be any good or not. Too many factual paragraphs about who was in charge and how they came to be there, too little narrative that kept my imagination with her. But I kept reading because I thought it would at least be educational, given my never-quenched interest in the Middle East. Luckily, Pazira finally allows her world to unfold its own drama, and the book, rather than keeping up a tedious tone, suddenly opened out into a real story — a childhood of love, fear, anger, repression, countrywide violence and war, and a simmering resentment against Afghanistan’s occupiers, Soviet soldiers.

Pazira grew up hating the Soviet Union and anything to do with Russia. On a personal note, I found her experiences the tiniest bit eerie. While my schoolmates in Montana speculated on the spying capabilities of my father’s thick Russian accent and my parents discussed the ‘Cold War’ only in terms of its stupidity, Pazira watched Soviet tanks rumble through her streets and Soviet planes fly overhead. The sight of them nurtured an understandable loathing, anger, and patriotism in her heart. From before she was ten years old, she had learned to love the mujahidin, the brave men who were fighting for her country’s freedom from the hated occupiers. When she got older, she joined an underground resistance movement that supported the holy soldiers, fighting for liberation.

What’s important about the book is not just the historical detail of the proxy war fought between the United States and the Soviet Union on the land of this tiny, poor country, but the striking picture of modern Afghani life before the Taliban came to power. We in the West are used to knowing only what we see on television. So after the U.S. attacked Afghanistan in 2001, we were shown pictures of women in burkas and told they had no access to education or health care. What we weren’t told is that, only ten years ago, before the U.S.-backed mujahidin came to power, women dressed ‘normally’ (including mini-skirts and make-up), and went to school just like the boys did. Pazira grew up in a modern Afghan culture that knew little of these ultra-repressive quasi-religious practices.

But she did grow up knowing the fear of attack and the rage of an occupied land. A point came when it was almost certain that Pazira’s father and some other relatives would be arrested for suspicious activity, or perhaps suspicious thought. Her father, who had many times said he would never abandon his country, finally, in weariness, agreed to her mother’s begging that they leave. So they did, traveling with a smuggler to a refugee camp in Pakistan.

And it was here that Pazira’s illusions about her heroes the mujahidin were crushed. Her very first day in refugee lodging, she peeked out a garden gate and was shot at — not to injure, but to warn. “Never, ever go outside,” said her frightened hostess. “If they see you without your hair covered, or without a man, they’ll shoot at you.” Pazira was enraged. In Kabul, she had gone to school, studied — rebelled against memorizing Marx and learning Russian, sure, but her education was never limited because she was a woman — and she had dressed as she pleased. Most important, she had believed in the holy war, the mujahidin, the people who, like her, loved her land and fought for it. And she found, in the end, that not only were they narrow, cruel people, but that they considered her a second-class citizen, hardly a person at all.

When she was growing up, says Pazira, “I was fascinated by the word ‘mujahidin.’ Because they were fighting the Russians, I supported them all, unconditionally. Now it appears that, like so many of my friends and classmates, I was staring at a looking glass. The mujahidin I believed in are no longer a reality. I’m beginning to see a different face of jihad.”

Pazira learned about bickering warlords, about the U.S. backing and arming of some of the worst, most inhumane men fighting the Soviets. It was these people who later took over her country. After fleeing to Canada, she received infrequent letters from a friend still in Kabul. Even before the Taliban came to power, women were forced out of schools and hospitals, under severe head coverings, and into their homes. The warlords fought among one another and, just like the Soviets, killed the innocent people in between.

There are no easy answers in this book, except perhaps one. A friend of Pazira’s, an older man, points out that, while historians try to make war a story of strategy, of battles won and battles lost, those facts are simply the window dressing, something to make sense of war. What war actually is, is destruction, despair, death, and the anger of those caught between — a story of lives lost and destroyed, of a land ripped apart.

(This review refers to the paperback edition released in 2006 in the U.S. It is still in print, but Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk have very few copies — Amazon.ca is a better source, or, as I always do, you can find anything you want worldwide at AbeBooks.)

Pitter patter of tiny feet!

Friday, May 25th, 2007

England is finally being dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st Century. A smoking ban on all public places comes into force on the 1st July 2007. I can remember when I first moved to London, you could still smoke on the tube. Not just on the platforms, but in the carriages. Then a bunch of people got burnt to death and everyone realised that it was a really stupid idea.

There is even talk about banning smoke in cars, but not to save people breathing in second hand smoke, just to avoid people being distracted. The safety mafia are big on concentration in cars. Firstly, you were banned from using a mobile phone unless you had a hands free set. Safety would improve, we were told. Now they are trying to ban even hands free phones. Even talking on a hands free phone is apparently too distracting – especially we are told, if we receive bad news when we are driving. So-called experts are wheeled out. Generally these are people who have had a family member who has been killed in a driving accident and now it has become their cause celebre. Now tragic at this might be, it doesn’t make them experts. I have fallen of a wall when I was drunk, but that didn’t make me an expert in gravity. All it did was make my head hurt.

There is one thing that the safety police have overlooked. If speaking on the phone can be distracting, then how about passengers? Cars would be much safer if we banned the distraction of passengers. Especially children! Honestly. Ban all children from cars. There will be far fewer accidents. I know this for a fact. My 5 month old daughter has a cracking set of lungs. When she starts screaming in the car seat next to me when I am driving it is more distracting than speeding down the motorway at ninety miles an hour with a close friend’s head in my lap! I know this for a fact too.

I am thinking a lot about travel and children at the moment – making great plans about where we are going to take our little arrival. North Africa and India are all very much on the list, but the first trip is likely to be a driving jaunt around France and Northern Spain. I secretly have my heart set on making it back out to the Fiesta at Pamplona, but rest assured do not intend to be the first runner to be wearing a baby carrier!

A lot of people have said that I am mad taking Amber to India, but I have travelled there dozens of times and even her middle name, Sashi, is Hindi for Moonlight. Nonetheless, it is good to know that I am not the only one who thinks it is a good idea. Susan Keselenko Coll takes a decidedly upmarket view in With Care, India Can Be Magic whereas Esther Selsdon, originally published in The Observer newspaper in England, takes a different approach in Happiness is a Bucket Bath.

I have to confess, before Amber Sashi came along, I always used to avoid kids when travelling. Generally speaking it was only on the plane where I saw any – I usually head on to the remote destinations where people with kids wouldn’t generally go.

There don’t seem to be too many people doing that. Most people equate family travel with Disneyland not the middle of nowhere! One of those who does is the Travellin’ Mama who is currently mooching around Australia with her two daughters.

Of course, for more inspiration there is also my colleague Sheila’s blog on Family Travel.

Lastly, and on a lighter note, checkout Monkey Travel. If this doesn’t inspire your little monkeys to come travelling to see the world, then nothing will!

Carolina….nothing finer.

Saturday, May 19th, 2007

Caffeine Fiend by Tony Java! at Boulevard gallery, NoDaI’ve just enjoyed a balmy Southern Friday evening in Charlotte, North Carolina, which is probably best known as the heart of NASCAR country.

No, I wasn’t at a stock car race, speaking of interesting sports.

Last night I enjoyed dinner at the very not Southern, Baja-ish Cabo Fish Taco restaurant, followed by a stroll through local art galleries during the twice-monthly Gallery Crawl in the hip NoDa arts district in Charlotte (I’m in the area researching a combination NASCAR/travel article for an upcoming issue of Automotive Traveler.) 

“NoDa” is part of the current fad of every American city trying to have a neighborhood shorthand name like New York City’s SoHo, which is “south of Houston Street.” 

NoDa is the “North Davidson Street” area of Charlotte; it’s a National Register Historic District and former textile manufacturing hub (one of the mills has been converted to swank lofts and apartments.)

The galleries were fun and and had a variety of art mediums: sculpture, pottery, paintings, fabric art, etc.  I liked the caffeinated paintings by artist Tony Java!,  but I’m trying to save my pennies for next week’s visit to the Southern Highland Craft Guild Folk Art Center in the North Carolina Blue Ridge mountains.

I was particularly interested in the NoDa Neighborhood Theatre, which bills itself as a “non-smoking, all ages live music venue.” I could hear famous white-haired blues/rock guitarist and singer Johnny Winter wailing away in there last night, so I stood on the sidewalk for a minute and enjoyed my own private mini-concert.

My itinerary is pretty jam-packed with both NASCAR events and investigating attractions that have nothing to do with stock car racing.  Today I’ll attend the NASCAR All-Star event (a fun race for big bucks) then tomorrow I’ll check out the Levine Museum of the New South for a cultural twist.  The Levine features the exhibit “Cotton Fields to Skyscrapers: Charlotte and the Carolina Piedmont in the New South. Covering 8,000 square feet, the exhibit features Charlotte and its 13 surrounding counties as a case study to illustrate the profound changes in the South since the Civil War.”

Monday brings a visit to the US National Whitewater Center (outdoor recreation and a multi-channel whitewater circulating river where the US Canoe and Kayak teams train) and a stop at Pit Crew U, where NASCAR pit crews learn how to magically refuel a car, change all four tires and make other adjustments in just a few seconds.

Tuesday I head out for a three-day road trip in the western part of North Carolina, driving up the stunning Blue Ridge Parkway, right past the Cold Mountain featured in the Civil War novel and movie of the same name.

Friday through Sunday I’m back in Charlotte for racing activities and the big Coca-Cola 600 race on Sunday May 27th — in case you open-wheel fans aren’t watching the Indy 500 instead.

Whenever I can post, I’ll certainly try to get you some more North Carolina travel gems ”hot off the presses.”

Technorati tags:  travelCharlotteNorth CarolinaNASCAR