Archive for April, 2007

Quad-biking in corduroy jeans

Monday, April 16th, 2007

Quad-biking to Kubu © stevedavey.comI have always hated the British tendency towards the celebrity travel writer. Some dim-witted soap ‘star’ or footballer who needs a ghost writer to churn out their autobiography for them, and who thinks that now they can afford to turn left when they get on a plane they are in some way a travel expert.

One exception is the UK motoring writer and presenter Jeremy Clarkson. Clarkson is the bête noire of environmentalists and liberals and one of the presenters of BBC’s Top Gear. [Top Gear is shown on BBC World, but there is a clip here showing a race between a car and a boat from London to Oslo]. In the same way that I would much rather sit in a pub having a political discussion with a right-wing conservative (they at least have arguments – liberals think that “because it’s so wrong” is reasoned debate) I enjoy reading Clarkson’s brand of humorous and opinionated writing. Think of a British PJ O’Rourke in corduroy jeans.

Clarkson often touches on travel themes, such as this piece on taking a private jet to Hungary, Nice jet, shame about abroad or a rant about Tony Blair’s choice of holiday destination in Let’s all stay with Lord Manilow. His musings on English as a foreign language should be illuminating for all Americans, including of course George W.

Even when not directly writing about travel issues, Clarkson’s ravings are so quintessentially English that they are pertinent for anyone who is considering visiting the British Isles. Think everyone over here loves the humble British pub? Checkout Bullseye! The pub is dying and you will see that Clarkson certainly doesn’t!

Sometimes Clarkson goes the whole hog, and trots out a fully fledged travel piece. In Clarkson’s Incredible Journey he writes about a visit to Botswana where he went Quad biking on the Magkadigkadi Salt Pan with the enigmatic Ralph.

Ralph owns Jack’s Camp and runs a travel company called Uncharted Africa. I was lucky enough to stay at Jacks and cross the pan to Kubu Island, when I was shooting a book on Unforgettable Islands for the BBC. Kubu is an ancient granite island in the Magkadigkadi Pan. On my journey I was accompanied by a couple of Bushman trackers. The Bushmen hold Kubu as sacred, and certainly it is a hauntingly beautiful place – one of the most spiritual and remote I have ever been to. For all of his cynicism, Clarkson realises this and has a moment of ephipany, saying that he “loved it more than any journey I’ve ever made”. He even says it is better than driving an Enzo Ferrari – praise indeed from an environment-hating petrolhead!

Kubu Island © stevedavey.com

Words & images ©stevedavey.com 2007

No frills….for 8+ hours?

Friday, April 13th, 2007

Ryanair plane (courtesy Jawcey at Flickr CC)Breaking news:   budget Irish airline Ryanair is going to take a swipe at transatlantic routes, offering flights to the US through a “sister or associate company” from bases in continental Europe. They promise some of their usual teaser fares, like around $12 one way. 

I’ve flown Ryanair with my family to Pisa, Italy and Oslo, Norway (although the “Oslo Torp” airport is a heck of a long way from Oslo) and my take is that if you’re willing to go bare bones, you can’t beat the price.  How about all 4 of us from Germany to Pisa and back for about $150 total?

That said, I was flying short-haul, from within Europe since I lived in the Netherlands at the time.  I’m not sure I can take zero amenities, paying for all basics like water and food, plus draconian baggage weight restrictions for a long flight over to Europe (unless I don’t have my kids along and I just plan on buying a whole new wardrobe as soon as I land.)

A Guardian blogger has already weighed in.  What do you think?

Technorati tags:  travel, Ryanair, budget airlines, Europe

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Hawaiian rodeos, crepes in Brittany, Pico Iyer in a Buddhist sanctuary, …

Tuesday, April 10th, 2007

Some of the magazine world’s travel writing round-ups:

Islands (May): Constance Hale introduces us to Hawaiian paniolos, or cowboys, during Honokaa’s Rodeo Week. (The idea sure got my attention — reading about bucking broncos on the Big Island was surreal for me, akin to exploring surfing culture in my native Montana.) Christine Richard explores the rocky coast of Milos, one of the Greece’s “less trodden” islands.

Joe Yogerst sets out to “discern whether Ibiza really was the hippest scene in all of Eurodom and how it got to be that way.” His struggle with social stage fright — is he cool enough for this? — is very entertaining. And Megan Padilla touches centuries of history in the covered tombs and standing stones of Scotland’s Orkney Islands.

Travelgirl (April/May): Dana Rosenblatt wonders whether Fort Lauderdale has fully grown up and can “shake its notorious past.” (Answer: a surprisingly sophisticated yes) Denise Dube provides excerpts from a travel diary to Vietnam, seeking to get beyond the well-known wars and conflicts that have defined a mere 200 years in its 2200-year history. Carol Jacobs treks 3 of her favorite hiking areas in Switzerland; and Hadani Ditmars returns to Innsbruck and clothes it in the history of the Hapsburg regime.

Saveur (April): In Brittany, Nancy Coons evokes the landscape and people in her flavorful essay on the resurgence of crepe cuisine, from the history of the region’s buckwheat agriculture since the Crusades to dancing at Fest Noz, a night festival that occurs year-round in various towns in Brittany.

“Singapore, my home, is not a country for the gastronomically fainthearted,” says Christopher Tan as he takes us on a walking food tour of Singapore, with its influences of Arab, French, South Indian, and other bedazzling cultures. And we learn where to find the surprisingly popular street food currywurst (fried pork sausage with a sauce of ketchup and curry) in Berlin.

Gourmet (April): Kiran Desai takes us through the heady, sensory delights of the Mughal cuisine of Delhi’s streets, where “some cooks claim to make 300 kebabs.” Fuchsia Dunlop “traces ancient pants of trade and migrations” in the food of China’s notoriously remote Xinjiang province. And in Dublin’s streets, Pete Hamill clocks economic boom and a solid literary history, and the modern problems that result in the space between the two.

Life has (on sale until June) a stupendous “photographic pilgrimage” of scenes, stories, and history from the Bible — riveting images (with text) of places sodden with human history.

Conde Nast Traveler (US edition): Pico Iyer takes his talents (in mind and pen) to “the holiest place in Japan,” Koyosan, the birthplace of Shingon Buddhism, which he calls a sanctuary of darkness. Francine du Plessix Gray chases the legends of Aeneas on a Mediterranean cruise — that uses the classic book as a guide.

Ted West skirts some of the highest passes and knucklebiting scenery (read — narrow, precipitous mountain roads) in the Alps while driving a Cadillac XLR sports car through Germany, Austria, and Italy. Sarah Kerr writes about a region of Mexico just south of Cancun, where diverse ecosystems are soon to be open to luxury hotels and golf courses — abutting some of the best preserved Mayan ruins and tranquil national parks in Mexico. And the magazine excerpts a memoir by Ryszard Kapuscinski (d. 2007). In Tehran at the overthrow of the Shah, the author talks not about the future fundamentalist state, but his journey to the ancient city of Persepolis (330 b.c.). He reminds us what our civilizations were founded on: “Was not the monumentality of past epochs created by that which is negative and evil in man?”

Vanity Fair (US Edition — May): In the magazine’s second annual “green” issue, Alex Shoumatoff treks the Amazon to see what devastation rampant agriculture and global warming are having on “the world’s lungs.” Depressing but evocative.

Adding a little atmosphere to your travels

Tuesday, April 10th, 2007

One of several performers on a summer day in Brussels, Belgium (Scarborough photo)I enjoy street performers (or “buskers”) when I travel because they provide a little lagniappe to my visit; a little dollop of smile to my day.  The unexpected pleasure of it thrills me, even when I’m perhaps already having a pretty good time in London, Christchurch,  Istanbul or even Micanopy, Florida.

That’s why it was such fun to read “Pearls Before Breakfast,” about virtuoso violinist Joshua Bell performing anonymously on his Stradivarius for commuters one busy morning in the L’Enfant Plaza metro station in Washington, DC (free registration may be required to read the piece, which also has an audio and video clip. There’s also a discussion with the article’s author here.)

Hat tip to DJ Jeffrey Blair on public radio station KMFA, Classically Austin 89.5, for talking about the story this morning while I was on the laptop and could immediately go find the link.

The upshot of the story is that nobody really recognized the young guy playing the fabulous music, the “art without a frame” in the words of the article’s author Gene Weingarten, but some passersby did stop and listen and Bell at least made $32.17.   Some took the time to appreciate artistry and beauty.  Of all the demographics that morning, it was the children who stopped, every time, tried to listen and were shooed along by their harried parents.

I hope I’ve taught my kids to pause and to listen and to enjoy the world around them. I hope I’ve also taught them busker etiquette….that you pay a little something if you stand there and listen or watch their performance, that you clap when the music/act is finished, that you smile and interact with the performer and that’s perfectly OK, even though they are strangers.

Because they aren’t really strangers, those folks I’ve watched in London’s Covent Garden or Key West’s Mallory Square or some nook on the MBTA subway in Boston.   If they’re halfway talented, they’re bringing delight and beauty into my travels, and I thank them for that.

Technorati tags:  travel, busker, street performer, Joshua Bell

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The Case for Staying Put

Monday, April 9th, 2007

This week while reading The Closing of the American Mind by Allan Bloom (an enlightening thinker if outdated), I came across the following provocation: “A trip to Florence or to Athens is one thing for a young man who hopes to meet his Beatrice on the Ponte Santa Trinita or his Socrates in the Agora, and quite another for one who goes without such aching need. The latter is only a tourist, the former is looking for completion.”

These lines are originally an illustration of the author’s point (not very important here, but …) that all life’s experiences, travel as well, mean less to young people in modern times because youth lacks sexual prohibition: intellectual ecstasy and sexual discovery were once intertwined; now, both are at the same time (supposedly and erroneously) easily attained and easily dismissed. Of course, it’s difficult to take this nostalgia-driven argument seriously, but the claim that “the former is looking for completion” led me through a jungle of others’ thoughts on the subject of why we travel.

It’s timely, too. Earlier last week I had planned to write a bit in response to World Hum’s response to an article in The Wilson Quarterly about why we travel — or, actually, why we shouldn’t. The author makes the case for “staying put.” As so often happens, though, I dithered. Was it really important to dissect the essay (which ran through the various reasons of why travel was no longer appealing, and why it no longer answers former needs of discovery and explorations) — excellently written though it was — to find that its thicket of historical and literary quotes failed to lead logically to its conclusion? Or that the conclusion was still a valid point despite the problematic premises? Not really. Reason being that, condensed from literary references and musings, it in the end devolves into the old question of traveler vs. tourist, a distinction I’m tired of hearing about, and which was defined most aptly and definitively by Thoreau: “Where is the ‘unexplored land’ but in our own untried enterprises? To an adventurous spirit any place — London, New York, Worcester, or his own yard — is ‘unexplored land,’ to seek which Frémont and Kane travel so far. To a sluggish and defeated spirit even the Great Basin and the Polaris are trivial places.” In other words, it all depends on who’s taking the trip.

Allan Bloom’s incidental point of what the traveler is looking for brings the question back into knottier territory. It’s easy to be blithe about the Wilson essay, to answer that travel broadens our experiences and minds and in general makes the world a better, more understanding place. It’s easy to point happily to Pico Iyer’s old essay on Salon and say, “There, he said all that needs saying.” (And how eloquently, too!) And maybe we all believe it. But the easy answers are often falsehoods we tell ourselves.

Many travelers, and especially travel writers, try to be a little more honest when we say that we are drawn by an insatiable curiosity, a wanderlust akin to a gourmand’s love of food — we can never get enough. The truth is, we travel because we feel like it. Because we want to. And the rougher truth is that we don’t know why. What’s worse is that, as with so many other issues in our lives, we’re unwilling to examine the question.

Most travelers think that travel makes them better people. Better in what way? Sure, you get a wider sense of the world, learn new cultures, and hopefully leave a good impression of your own manners and respect for others’ traditions. You come back. If you’re a writer, maybe you spin a tale showing that women struggle against expectations in various ways worldwide, or about a strange encounter demonstrating how small our world is. My question is, does it lead you closer to believing in anything greater than yourself? How many people use travel to look more deeply into existence, and not just at how the world fits together?

Consider Bloom’s later discussion of Nietzsche’s critique of modern democracy. “Nobody really believes in anything anymore, and everyone spends his life in frenzied work and frenzied play so as not to face the fact, not to look into the abyss.” For all but the most aware people, travel too often falls into another category of frenzy.

This is what the Wilson author is pointing out when he says: “I’m not proposing inertia as a permanent option; the economy couldn’t take it. But as a temporary measure, a counter to the ceaseless spin of our lives, lasting just long enough for us to get our bearings and sort out a bit more of what’s fantasy about the world from what’s purposeful, it has its appeal. Stillness, silence, the reflective ­pause — ­air and head cleared of ­noise — ­are about as welcome today as plague rats were in the Middle Ages. ”

How many of you read the old Iyer essay to the end, all four pages of it (our attention spans, as we know, are not what they once were)? How about this passage: “I go to Iceland to visit the lunar spaces within me, and, in the uncanny quietude and emptiness of that vast and treeless world, to tap parts of myself generally obscured by chatter and routine.”

If we are honest, we of course know that we are looking for something when we travel. It takes a brave soul to admit that they’re simply looking for completion, for an opportunity to “know thyself” that is so rare in our lives. To quote the inestimable Iyer once again: “‘The ideal travel book,’ Christopher Isherwood once said, ’should be perhaps a little like a crime story in which you’re in search of something.’ And it’s the best kind of something, I would add, if it’s one that you can never quite find.”